Dave’s Garage (RIP 159, Bye Bus and Hello Mercedes)

The Alfa is getting new front tyres, can’t afford premium but I’m not getting any damn eco tyres, one day she’ll get a set of high performance tyres (she can wait till I get a set of teledials)

1 Like

Top top, put the new tyres on the back and the older ones in the front. It is better to have less grip on the front than on the rear, I mean, you don’t want catastrophic oversteer, meanwhile understeer is easier to handle, same thing with aquaplaining, having the rears go when you don’t want them to do it is pretty scary.

1 Like

Bull, oversteer is always superior to understeer. With oversteer you at least don’t see the tree that you crash into and die.

3 Likes

Not to mention that the front wheels also do most of the braking,all of the acceleration(that alfa is FWD right?) and all off the turning in and a lot of mechanics recommend you do put the worn tyres on the rear…

the rear tyres are only about 1,000miles old, and they are the Pirelli tyres too

Wait, you haven’t bought the same tyres that were on the car already?

Also, 1,000 miles isn’t too big of a difference, but check thread depth, just in case.

no, couldn’t afford to buy a set of Pirellis

They were fine otherwise the garage would’ve been telling me I should buy new tyres for the rear :joy:

After only 1000 miles, thread depth should be fine. Front tires tend to wear faster anyways so they’ll equalize.

(Still, what Leo said is goddamn right. Don’t put worn tires to the rear.)

I made that mistake with my Hyundai, especially with winter coming up.

old rear tires+snow/slush+ highway speeds=guardrails.

1 Like

Well I throw my car into junctions and because it’s nimble and light on its feet I can keep good momentum on twisting country roads, if the tyres were worn enough it would only take an awkwardly cambered corner to put me in the bushes, so really it’s better just having all tyres done at the same time to avoid any situation like that (if the tyres haven’t been done recently)

Truthfully tires are one area where I don’t like to play it cheap. I have no problem shelling out extra cash in order to have a proper set of tires. Brakes and batteries are also areas where I prefer to have the best I can get. (Even though being a manual, my Taurus does offer an alternative if the battery sucks)

I really wish I could splash out on the Pirelli P9000 that this car would’ve come with from factory, I’m just glad I didn’t go for cheap ones, £104 for a set isn’t too bad for mid rangers and they grip pretty good too, only issue is the road noise but the engine note drowns it out and so does the radio

A pity you live across the pond, I have access to a tire machine at work, that can save a bundle when you mount em yourself.

Dang :joy: I forgot one of my dads friends also has a tyre machine, could’ve saved myself a good bit of money

Meanwhile… Im steel doing my tires the old way. With long still bars and leverage… Fortunately its small Just a 90/70R17 bike tires :stuck_out_tongue:

TFW you mix up Still (To Continue) and Steel (A metal made from Iron) perfectly.

1 Like

The ones I use are solid, but cheap. Plus, I run battered steelies on all 4 corners to cope with the constant potholes. Ive seen alloys crack on some of the bumps I’ve gone over.

Haha. Brain fart…

Anyway. On bikes i think it’s the other way around though. Slight slide on the rear could still be manageable. But on the front, boy is it deadly

Can you get federal tyres over there? The aussie ones not the cheap china tyres. I only use federal now (has nothing to do with the fact that they sponsored tyres on my old race car) the 555’s are one of the better soft tyres u can get.

and remember all only those four tyres that actually do all of the work and you have over 1.5t with just a total of 24inches of patch connecting with the road

It’s amazing how car tyres work, you wouldn’t think that small contact patch would be enough to keep your car clinging on for dear life when you take a sharp bend at 60mph :joy: