My car is at the moment at 0.205 hp/kg.
I am sure others here could already make it go under 2:20.
But i have no real idea what i am doing i guess.
The only thing i could think off, is swapping the Alu Block to Cast.
So i could reach 9k while being able to have around 50 Reliability.
On what do i have to look out when doing my finetuning ?
Do i try to get best Sportiness Numbers or should i just try changing stuff and then let it run the ATT ?
First try to up the bore size and lower the stroke height instead of switching out the block, you should be looking at 88+ pistonsize and 81- pistonlength to get the best reliability to power ratio (i think i had something like 89 bore and 80 stroke on the 300hp engine) and constantly check towards rpm to find the sweetspot. And don’t forget to add qualitypoints.
When it comes to tuning the suspension you should (imo) aim for a straight line after the bump and rebound on both front and rear suspension, at a time when you have evened out the aero to (as close to) zero as possible, and then you dial in as much front and rear camber as you like and finetune with the swaybars to get the drivingprofile you like.
Use 265/30 - 35 tires both front and back (at least that’s my sweet spot, i think it’s depending on car type)
Be sure to check both low and high speed graphs, and the information on the testtrack tab. (Can post images of what i mean later)
And you should aim for balance between sportiness and driveability.
My team reveal is coming in about… 13 days 
\o/
(Thanks @gridghost for the help. The Engine is still not the best, but now it is at least somewhat combatable)
So here’s the pictures i promised of how i think tuning (especially aero and suspension) works best
Remember that this is my take on it and not the truth, make your own tests
Suspension
Aero
What to aim for (at least for a start) (or at least something in that ballpark)
Suspension for base car and race car must be the same?
Edit: Also would love to see a battle between Baltazar Quasar, Kimura Auburn, Zenshi Nimessa and my entry (that is almost ready).
Well, i certainly hope not 
(if you mean setup wise) Chassiswise, i don’t know, but probably. The rules doesn’t say. They only speak of drivetype.
Say if it’s double wishbone at the front and multilink at the rear, I don’t think you can change that. The actual suspension components you should be able to, considering even amateurs do stuff like coilover upgrades nowadays
Hmm, after some fiddling I’m struggling to decide whether I go with the FF hatch or the FR sedan. They’re actually very close in performance… And both satisfactorily quick.
Having the same problem, tho i can’t seem to get any of them quick enough (going on koolkeis 2:13’s here)
@Nomade0013 Suspension type (i.e. the bits you choose in the Chassis tab) obviously has to be the same, but as for components in the Trim tab, you can change those 
#UPDATE: Last minute rule change
Really sorry to say this now but I forgot to add in a cap on quality sliders in the trim tab, is anyone opposed to changing this now?
New rule would be a max of +5 on quality I sliders for the race trim, max cost would remain the same. Apologies!
It’s ok for me, at least (I thought the rule applied there anyway)
fine for me though, are we gonna have quality slider cap too for trim tab?
if it’s JUST a +5 max without a max number of points overall, it could be OK.
@JohnWaldock Yeah, +5 max on any of the sections in the trim tab. 17k max cost still applies to reign that in a bit.
@Denta It’s +5
thangyaw for clarifying
Well, now i have to change my car to meet the changes, oh well, ill lose a bit of track time.
This line is confusing me.
It means if the base car is front wheel drive then so should the race car… same goes for rear wheeled drive. If your base car is however all wheel drive then your race car should be rear wheel drive if the engine is mounted longitudinally, or front wheeled drive if the engine is mounted transversely (check the chassis tab).
