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BRC: 1970 Nürburgring 24h [BONUS-P]


It’s not clear if an engine that is exactly 3000cc will fit into the >=3000cc category or the 3000+cc category… Can there be clarification on this?

Perhaps the latter should be stated as 3001+cc?


This means “less or equal to”, so 3000cc would still be that category.


How is the fuel consumption measured? (I mean, what are the deciding factors? The fuel consumption the game gives us as a number? Or is it incorporating the engine efficiency curve as a whole?)


It’s a full simulation of the fuel consumption, considering the efficiency curve, the power the car is making at current RPM and throttle position. The final consumption will be significantly higher than what Automation tells you.

For a very rough estimation:

  • divide the average engine power [kW] in the operating RPM range in race conditions by the average efficiency of your engine in the same range [%]
  • multiply by the percentage of full throttle during a lap (usually between 50 and 70 percent, hugely depending on the track and the speed of your car)
  • divide by the fuel factor of around 11.5 kWh/kg. You get the fuel consumption estimate in kg/h.
  • 1 Liter of fuel is 0.75 kg, so divide by 0.75 to get liters per hour. With the tank size accoding to your homologation confirmation, you then know how long your fuel tank roughly will last [h].
  • Try to see how many laps you can make within that time.

But don’t nail me down on the numbers you get :slight_smile:

EDIT: Calculator in Google Spreadsheet


I got :-

+++ Divide By Cucumber Error. Please Reinstall Universe And Reboot +++

:rofl: :rofl:

I’ll get my coat…


I’ve been reading through your rules and i was wondering if weight affects tyre wear? I haven’t seen anything that says it does, but it seems like something that should


Yes, weight (or better: tyre load) does effect tire wear, but that is at least partially compensated by wider tires for larger capacity/heavier cars.


Another challenger for the 1000cc class, the 1967 Autocenti-Innobianchi Mille S.
And no, it does not come with side mirrors from the factory since those were not yet mandatory in italy. (srsly)

It has a fuel injected 65hp engine five-speed transmission to make sure those objects behind you aren’t getting any closer, so why look at them?


Is there any information about weather? I seem to recall Sports being better than Semislicks past a certain point. How rainy is the autumn thereabouts?


Just to triple check, with aero fixtures, the limits are on how many of each type of fixture and not where they are placed right? Say if I have 2 lip fixtures in front, one lip in the rear (used as a spoiler), and one wing on the rear for group 4, I’m in the clear right? (my downforce is under the limit too)


No, just kidding. Weather will be a mixed bag - the Nürburgring is famous for weather changes, so there will be rain and dry sections. Nobody knows exactly what will happen on the ring, and I won’t post any weather forecast in advance. One thing is sure: There will be not only light rain from time to time.
Semi-Slicks will be worse in the rain than sports, sports will be worse than mediums. Balancing wise, I aim for a speed differential, that is the roughly inverse of the dry conditions speed differential between the compounds.

If you are estimating that two compounds will result in a quite similar overall performance including pit stops in the dry, I’d recommend going for the one performing better in the rain.

Correct, the placement does not matter, just the fixture type.


Question about the rules. Rim size can be changed for all groups, as can the brake distribution and pad slider.

Does this mean that brake size cannot be changed? So rim size is in effect limited by the size of your brake size?


Correct, brake size must remain, with all the implications this has.


now that’s big OOF for us who using slicks for tuning… (especially low power car)
I’d better try either sport and medium compound…


The kind of car I want to build seems to be coming out a little smidge faster on the semislicks. Assuming the BRC 1976 booklet is still close to the truth I might be leaning slightly towards the soft rubber, but it’s a tough call.

Of course, tire wear is the big unknown here. If the practice result comes back horrible for the semi-slicks, is it an option to just run the homologation version instead of the race car? One should be easily available for any self respecting factory team and it’s not slow.

NB! Warning to anyone putting on liveries!
I’ve got my cars more or less ready, barring polish and late epiphanies in the next couple of days. I was putting a livery on the race car, finishing for the night, when I realised the handling graph was way off and the car had become 2 seconds slower around the track.

Even though body morphs were locked, the wheel arches had decided to snap back in, along with wheel offsets. It was still showing the correct width but the other stats were off. (Thankfully I’ve still got the Kee engine habit of taking screenshots of important cars so I could make sure everything went back to normal with the fix.)

So be careful putting fixtures on/around the wheel arches. And make backups!


are you allowed to change the quality sliders in the engine to make it more reliable etc.? (eg. fuel and exhaust)


Unfortunately no, that’s not an option for me. You can still change the tire compound after practice results.

Sure, just do it on the homologation trim already. For the race version, you must keep the quality settings from the homologation version.


The car i want to race will (potentially) be homologated for group 4.

But I can’t see how I can integrate a wing in its design for the street version.

Here’s my question: Can we add one for the racing version?Change the fixture for the racing version?Should the wing stay the same?


For Group 4 you can have a wing or a spoiler, which must already be on the homologation car. No changes of aero fixtures between homologation and production car.


I am feeling safe to assume that tire wear from wheelspin is a calculation for the specific gear, correct? As in, if I have 20 percent wheel spin in first gear, but only use first gear to get out of the pits, then the tire wear affected by wheel spin would be negligible, right?