Don’t tune your cars
Have fun tuning your cars
You may tune your cars - I will like you more if you don’t.
I have a few questions and I’ll try to explain it best I can.
If I have 1 set pitstop using the strategy calculator so the car pits 75% of the way through the race (and doesnt again), if theres a safety car at 50% (and I allow the car to pit then) will it use up that one stop, or will it pit again at 75% anyway?
Pit when tyre loss gets to “x”
Is this average tyre wear? the most tyre wear?
pit when damage is x, does that override the pit window? (tyre wear too?) if set too low will the car continually pit?
I will probably have more questions lol
When the safety car comes out, does it let cars gather into the train before it goes back in? or just in and out whenever needed. ie, half the grid pits half dont, does it wait for the other half to catch up again or does it just pit once the incident is cleared?
I mean you know my situation soooo
So this 107% rule, does that mean that the calculation uses both GT1 and GT2 grouped together or is it sperated into each class?
Split. Look at the unofficial google doc for lap time!
Its for each class, so fastest in GT1 107%
Fastest in GT2 107%
Derbayer said if there was any “outliers” then he would discount them, but thats obviously up to him to decide.
My car is slow and drinks too much gas… Der_Bayer isn’t going to like me as much.
The guide says that usually pit actions (fueling and tires) will be performed simultaneously. Is it the case for this event that they will be performed simultaneously, or will they be sequential?
Simultaneously, added that to the challenge description in the OP.
Set the Safety Car reaction window to a value > 25%. Then any time a safety car appears later than 25% before an originally planned pit stop, the originally planned stop will be replaced.
The bigger of the two tire wear/grip loss values, so it refers to the axle with the higher wear.
It will be an unplanned stop without replacement of planned pit stops, if the timing is outside the “pit window before stop” (as shown in light red in the strategy submission sheet). If it is inside the light red time frame, the original stop will be replaced and tires and fuel will be done as planned for the original pit stop. I hope this answers the question. If you set the value very low, you risk that you pit after every small bump. You should rather stay out with a slightly damaged car. I usually set the damage value to around 50-60 and hope for at least a partial repair during a planned pit stop.
The safety car does not care if the field is bunched up or not. I think it stays out for at least 3 minutes, then finishes the lap it is currently in. No matter if the rest of the field has caught up or not.
For these shorter races it doesnt matter too much but I would highly suggest a bunch up of the cars behind the safety car, it makes things a lot more interesting.
The 3 minutes (and more until the SC is back in the pits) are usually more than enough to bunch things up.
I know its a bit far away before the first race we’ll need to use them, but is there data on how the intermediate and wet tires perform? IIRC there were some charts on them from old BRCs, but want to make sure the correct information is here. If it’s going to be added to the weather simulation part of the guide later I don’t mind waiting lol
FABEL Sport is proud to announce that in the wake of our title sponsor withdrawing due to financial difficulties, FABEL has decided to continue in the BRC:GGT regardless, having secured private funding from within the company to continue our efforts for the 1996 season. Due to the change in sponsorship, we will be running a different livery on the #61 Cygnus X-1:
FABEL Sport continues to improve the X-1 following pre-season testing, with efforts focusing on fuel consumption and overall pace. We are confident that the changes made will put the #61 Cygnus X-1 on a more competitve footing for the coming BRC:GGTS season.
Ooooooooooohhh this is bad. Sorry DB, there will be revision. I desperatly need to learn myself to do a good turbo engine and get intune with my tunning. What a letdown.
MAHG Omega GT1 N31 '96
Fighting for the leading class, this first gen of GT1 race car will allow us to test our new technologies out of the test bench!
There seems to be (maybe known, no clue) bug, but my engine and design tabs show different power figures by 2-3hp. Which one should I take for hp/kg?
Also I would ask for some tyre wear clarification regarding brakes. So only the part where solid line is above dotted, counts to tyre wear and there you take pads into account? Do I understand correctly?
DB I’m gonna have to go back to the drawing board too, sorry to be a pain in the butt.
Here are the grip multipliers for Slicks vs. Intermediates vs. Wets. I will add the graph to the BRC Guide.
You don’t have to apologize if you have to make a revision. It was just a joke or rather a “when in doubt, don’t retune” because of some things about your car performance might change and you cannot estimate everthing within Automation. It is better to stick to the known car you have data on sometimes.
I’ll do a revision as well - need to get my tyre wear down and sacrifice some lap time by reducing camber.
It is not known to me. In that case, I’d suggest to:
- play it safe: use the higher hp number for you power-to-weight ratio calculation
- restart the game and check again if it is just a non-updating display issue in the car design tab.