This competition is fairly straight forward. You’re give a body and and engine of two completely different eras to put together. The winners will be chosen on looks and race time.
So your great uncle Ned died, and for reasons known only to him, he decides to bequeath to you what’s left of his truck. Now, what it is, noone is really sure, but we do know it’s from 1943, and has no engine or gearbox. Unfortunately, you is broke. Like. So deep in debt you can’t afford to pay attention.
What you do have, however, is a blown engine from a '94 Honda Civic Si. Which is a D16Z6. So you must build a 1.6L 4 cylinder engine to match those specs. Which has a bore and stroke of 75 x 90 mm respectively. (2.95 x 3.54 in)
You will be aloud to to do any level of tuning to this engine that any broke high school kid can do. So bolt on exhausts and intake. Maybe even ripping out the Rev-Limiter.
The body must remain as close to stock as you think looks the part. No after-market suspension, and it must be made of steel.
I really hope to turn this into a series, so any input will be appreciated. Entry cut-off is Jan 30th at noon.
EDIT: Shit you guys whine a lot.
How about this. Assuming you built the engine to proper stock specs, using only tubular exhaust, it should come to about $816. Do whatever mods you want as long as it doesn’t exceed $1000.
The vehicle itself should total under $8k (no mark up) when built. lets give you another $1k to tweak and mod.
It would be easier for us competitors if you supplied the base engine. I don’t know what a D16Z6 has for stock vvl/vvt or compression or general fuel system, so if you just supplied a base engine and said “change these” or “don’t change these” That would make it a bit smoother I think.
Edit: What is considered aftermarket suspension? Are we building in 1943 because that will affect things like tire availability and sizes? I don’t know any place today that sells tires from 1943 so it seems a modern tire replacement is in order.
Edit 2: Honda Civic SI engine is transversely mounted and the transmission would not work in a RWD, so what transmission specs should we use?
What kind of broke high school student has the money to have engine mounts and such custom made for putting a civic engine into a 1940’s pickup? what kind of broke high school student has money for an engine swap or any custom work done on their car for that matter.
True, but it’s still built on the premise of a cheap thrill that’s held together with zip ties
Either way I know a hs student who has worked his butt off to get a $8,000 truck (partial loan to help of course), but on top of that, he has been working on it himself. He took a grinder to some rust on the frame, got that off, then coated all the exposed underbelly with some black rust-oleum, cleaned up the exterior, cleaned up the rims, and is generally doing what you’d expect a good car crafter or hot rodder to do: Take car of a vehicle and make it their own.
Yeah, maybe the kid is in a vocational technical mechanics program where he can use this opportunity for a learning experience and get free help and make his own parts. Still, the premise is weak at best.
So I know nothing about honda engines so here are the specs from wiki
D16 series engines (1.6 liter)
Bore and Stroke: 75.0 × 90.0 mm (2.95 x 3.54 in)
Displacement: 1,590 cc (97 cu in)
Found in:
September 1989 – 1992 Honda CRX (European market)
Bore and Stroke: see D16 Series Engines
Displacement: see D16 Series Engines
Compression: 9.5:1
Power: 124 PS (91 kW; 122 hp) at 6,800 rpm[15]
Torque: 14.3 kg·m (140 N·m; 103 lb·ft) at 5,700 rpm[15]
Valvetrain: DOHC, four valves per cylinder
Cam Gear: 34 tooth
Fuel Control: OBD-0 PGM-FI
Head Code: P7
Piston Code: PM7
ECU Code: PM7
Clutch Kit: 210 mm disk
now a few more things like what kind of suspension does the chassis have?
What exactly is the budget?
What exactly is the transmission to be used as there is not much info available on RWD d16 engine conversions.
Any minimum stats needed to achieve?
what racetrack will you be taking times from?
how do you want the cars to be named?
what year are we building this to as obviously a modern engine cannot be made in 1943?
What exactly does this mean? Can you afford dyno tuning to re-calibrate or
is there a set amount of timing and fuel ratio,camshaft setting (ie can we replace the standard camshaft with a hotter item) to be used with only intake and exhaust modifications?
Found in 1992–1995 Honda Civic Si
1992–1995 Honda Civic EX, EX-V
1992–1995 Honda Civic ESi (European Market)
1993–1995 Honda Del Sol Si (US)
1993–1996 Honda Del Sol ESi (European)
Bore and Stroke: 75 x 90
Displacement: 1590 cc
Rod Length: 137 mm
Rod Ratio: 1.52~
Compression: 9.2:1
Power: 125 bhp (92 kW, 125 PS) at 6,600 rpm
Torque: 106 lb·ft (14.7 kg/m, 144 Nm) at 5,200 rpm
Volumetric Efficiency: 87.68%
Redline: 7,200 rpm
Fuel cut: over 7,400 rpm
VTEC switchover: 4,800 rpm
Fuel control: OBD-1 PGM-FI
Head code: P08
ECU code: P28
Well any teen with a honda civic and who inherited a 1940’s truck? And what kind of teen would have the money to A) buy a turbo kit B) buy whatever else is needed to make the engine actually work and not kill itself from the boost C) the money or tools and skill required to install those things and then finally have it dyno tuned so it doesn’t kill itself
@Zabhawkin And you would be surprised how hard it is to turn scrap metal into something useful.
@findRED19 Yes, I have heard of road kill and I’m sure they have plenty of parts custom made for their builds and use equipment that costs more than a house. If you want a cheap thrill held together by zip ties in the form of a car you’d be better off getting some cheap used car and driving that, or if you want something more high end and purpose built you could buy a car that already is pretty much modified how you want it to be. either way would probably be cheaper.
And while I’m no expert there is a big difference between cleaning up a car and an engine swap.
