which is the tameness? Is better a low value, or a highter value?
Higher is better 
It helps to look at all the stats covered by each attribute in the detailed stats tab, but overall: Tameness is how easy the car is to drive, especially in challenging conditions. When it comes to track testing, the higher the road rating, the worse condition it is in, and the more tameness comes into play.
In general, when racing, high tameness is good, provided the car is fast (sporty) enough to make good use of that tameness. A high tameness, low sportiness car will do well on tight, technical tracks and also tracks with roads in poor condition. A low tameness, high sportiness car is best at high speed tracks with few corners (see the first ATCC, where my car had the highest sport:tame ratio and won the fastest stages, but really suffered in the trickier stages, whereas Jakgoe’s car, with a more balanced ratio, did better overall.) However, having a ridiculously high tameness rating won’t help you if your car is simply too slow! (see my entry in the Communist cup, which has an unusual sport:tame ratio of 20:50! It won the tightest track, but can’t keep up with the faster cars on the faster tracks).
I got a little question, is around 410 HP a good output for a turbo engine? How much are you guys putting down? i expect cars with over 450 or, if the tuner is bonkers enough, 500?
I would suggest more power, but without compromising tameness. A good balance is everything.
For example, I made a car with the Lotus chassis, 550 hp and RWD. It was terrible, wheelspin everywhere.
500 is definitely possible within the regulations (and would actually make my car potentially faster around the track, though only under certain circumstances). However, there’s no way I can reach that output given I’m using 1998cc with a very short stroke!
Actually, now that I’ve finally finished it, I can announce that I’ve entered this ATCC with a mostly-faithful replica of the Group A spec not-Nissan Skyline HR31 GTS-R, inspired by the Calsonic livery. It has an RB20DET-R inline 6 (1998cc: bore 78mm, stroke 69.7mm), with cast iron block and aluminium heads (argh, the reliability!!!), DOHC 24 valves (not 30, boo). In race trim the engine was capable of 420hp or so (though the Australian produced Gibson Motorsport R31 probably ran more than that.) What I can say is that my version of this engine also runs quite a bit more than that too, but the car is overall still pretty tame (by my standards anyway).
BECAUSE SKYLINE. Also my god, it took me a while to figure out a workaround to placing the letter in the center, being an ‘exhaust’ and all. In fact, trying to match up the aesthetics as close as I could took me like 5 times longer than it took me to tune the car. I just want to do this machine justice!
claps Well done mate!
The reason why i’m sticking under 450 is because i’m using the stock RG30 Rigel’s 4-cylinder engine slightly modified, limiting my revving capacity, so i’m making it a 4WD compromise between a Turbo and N/A car
EDIT: Found out why my engine was so choked, the turbo was not properly set up, now it makes “a little bit” more power 
Strop, I love your Skyline entry. The HR31 GTS-R was a beast and it’s great to see it recreated as faithfully as possible in Automation 
My entry doesn’t have that level of pedigree yet hopefully will place better than last season!
Presenting the 1987 Bogliq Tolstoy R/T!!! 
Assuming it passes all legality checks, this will be the Moldovan great hope for glory in 1987!
The Tolstoy hahaha I love these names.
Maffc, the front end of your entry reminds me of Mitsubishi, so very much 
The Derecho! Even though it is a naturally aspirated and carbureted V8 I think it makes decent power.
After having 8 successful entries, I can say that the average level of the inscriptions is much higher in comparison with the first ATCC season.
Great job to everyone!
Edit: Still haven’t tested Niall’s car.
crosses fingers
Time for me to enter my first competition.
The “Banjaxed 214”:
Expecting this to go poorly for my first attempt 
.
Experimenting a bit with an engine in engine builder. I can get power no problem and I can get reliability. Both together proves to be a challenge. sigh
I did encounter some strange phenomenon though: Raising power just slightly at 257,5kW (~350HP) looses me about 10 points in reliability. No matter if it happens through boost, compression, timings or any quality slider. Even lowering the fuel quality and making the engine knock and thus dropping power below that threshold results in an actual rise of reliability. That can’t be right.
Save the design, put it in a car and add extra cooling, finish tuning from the car builder.
That was the plan, at least until I got sidetracked by unexpected behavior. Although I’m somewhat afraid the extra cooling approach to raise reliability may prove to be problematic since the turbo engines need such a lot of cooling it already takes quite a toll on aerodynamic. Guess it can’t be helped though, I’m currently stuck at about 300kW as well, without dropping below 30 reliability, and I may be inexperienced but I can see that’s not nearly enough compared to NA, given the one I did for comparison has more output without even really trying and I don’t know if I’d be able to get it below 30 reliability even if I want to.
Woohoo accepted! I was getting worried seeing some of the power figures, I thought I’d messed something up. Happy racing everyone
[quote=“QuantoSolo”]Experimenting a bit with an engine in engine builder. I can get power no problem and I can get reliability. Both together proves to be a challenge. sigh
I did encounter some strange phenomenon though: Raising power just slightly at 257,5kW (~350HP) looses me about 10 points in reliability. No matter if it happens through boost, compression, timings or any quality slider. Even lowering the fuel quality and making the engine knock and thus dropping power below that threshold results in an actual rise of reliability. That can’t be right.[/quote]
That can be a result of inadequate cooling, perhaps you want to add more grilles/vents.