Shit. My car is gonna be underpowered then…
Meh. Join the club. Based on the approved entries list I’ll be happy to make about 10th.
I have 1 more hp then you, neee ner neeee ner neee ner! (because 1 hp makes all the difference) areo, suspension and weight are just “numbers”) :-p
I’m outputting something in the low 200s through a NA V8… And frankly I can’t be bothered changing the engine because it would mean I’d have to remake the entire car -.-
Step one, use higher octane gas, step 2 more fuel mixture, step 3 up the cam rate, step 4 increase compression. That is the simplest way (not saying its most efficient way, or best way or the only way) to get more ponies out on an engine. Might need some internals upgraded but thats another story.
Just because I have no hope of getting a decent place in the end results, here’s basically my entire engine!
Flatplane, all aluminium V8
Billet steel crank
I-Beam titanium conrods
Lightweight Forged Pistons
DOHC, 5v/Cyl
11.9:11 compression
70 cam profile
VVT - All Cams
Naturally Aspirated
Multi Point EFI, Individual throttle bodies
100 RON fuel
12.5:1 mixture
100 ignition timing
8800 RPM
Dual race exhaust, 1.75"
No cats or mufflers
232 hp @ 8400 RPM
164 ft - lb @ 6400 RPM
Despite having such shitty power ratings, atleast I get 39 MPG!
It seems like a pretty efficient engine are you getting any “running rich” or “too high compression” errors?
Nope, the engine is tuned to its maximum potential. If I bumped up the fuel mixture or compression ratio any more I would get that warning.
If you bump down the fuel mixture a click or two and adjust compression ratio accordingly. You’ll gain literally SOME horsepower.
It also seems to me that all those exclusive internal components aren’t needed at 8800rpm unless you’re havin’ stroke.
I’m a tad over 300 with my v8, I liked my 4 cylinder more better sound and more realistic but I needed a much high quality, and more expensive bottom end to get the 9500 rpm redline my cam needed to make it’ 290hp so I had to switch to a v8, more hours but less money.
[quote=“conan”]If you bump down the fuel mixture a click or two and adjust compression ratio accordingly. You’ll gain literally SOME horsepower.
It also seems to me that all those exclusive internal components aren’t needed at 8800rpm unless you’re havin’ stroke.[/quote]
Yeah, the parts are overkill but who the fuck cares? I’m gonna lose either way 
I’m about to overhaul the RG200, lowering stroke and increasing bore, i could reduce the bottom end quality, increase power and cam profile, i expect around 290hp, the remaining money will be spent on further improving handling, if there IS remaining money
EGT is just warming up! 
[quote=“Microwave”]Just because I have no hope of getting a decent place in the end results, here’s basically my entire engine!
Flatplane, all aluminium V8
Billet steel crank
I-Beam titanium conrods
Lightweight Forged Pistons
DOHC, 5v/Cyl
11.9:11 compression
70 cam profile
VVT - All Cams
Naturally Aspirated
Multi Point EFI, Individual throttle bodies
100 RON fuel
12.5:1 mixture
100 ignition timing
8800 RPM
Dual race exhaust, 1.75"
No cats or mufflers
232 hp @ 8400 RPM
164 ft - lb @ 6400 RPM
Despite having such shitty power ratings, atleast I get 39 MPG![/quote]
Drop your timing into the 85, bump your compression to 12.5 and set your cam for 85-90 And save money and wweight by switching to a 3.75" single exhaust. Also yes your bottom end doesn’t need the super expensive parts, drop the crank to cast and unless you went with a superlight undersquare design the I beam rods should be good till 9000 in a 2000cc v8 that should free some money for a click or two of tech points elsewhere.
Could you explain to me briefly how 85 ignition timing differs to 100? It always seems that I get more power from having 100 ignition timing, how would having 85 be better?
I’ve always hit a point where ignition starts costing more octane then it gives in performance, almost no engine I’ve made works better at 100 then in the 80-90 range. Maybe we make totally different engines, but that’s what always has worked for me.
Get an Inline 4, more torque,cheaper. i tried Inline 6 an V8 as well and those are way to expensive just for a tiny more Power an less torque.
Ok its sounds more like a raceengine.
But
2L V8: not in this competition. 2L Straight 6: not for this competition
Only if money dosn’ count.
Don’t hit me.
Just found out that i didn’t need to alter B/S, just cranked up cam quality and increased ignition timing from 50 (i forgot about that) to 85, i got 307hp, and i wasted half of my $2000 budget, the rest being used for moar handling
Ok, just out of curiosity what kind of times do your cars put out on the Automation Test Track?
I’m going to step in here and say “not while we’re still in the design phase”, please. If y’all want to talk about that in PM, fine. But don’t start a redesign escalation by posting them publicly.
Yeah… actually that’s probably not a good idea
After all, it was people posting their power ratings that I decided I needed to redesign.