I’ve been crunching numbers with my car, tinkering with the settings (after submission), and found another half-second! I also crunched the numbers in fuel consumption, and if I didn’t make a mistake, my 7.4L (or was it 7.5?) V8 should be able to go just over 30 minutes with a full tank, which is better than I expected, but not necessarily great.
[quote=“strop”]Those sub 2:20 times seem to come with cars that have quite a lot of fuel consumption, or lower engine reliability, or both. At least, I hope lol. Otherwise I’m a good 2.5+ seconds slower per lap for not very much benefit… Because I’m running >200hp less for starters.
If the BRC suggested anything to me it was that I should be less conservative. But in a 1000km race, you only dnf once…[/quote]
My thought was, since I’m going to break down anyway, I might as well go fast before it happens. And sub 2:20 times usually come at the expense of fuel, reliability and wear, but 2 seconds a lap means I can afford twice as many stops as you, probably.
I’m guessing each pit stop costs about 40 seconds - 25 for 75 kg fuel and 15 for pit in/pit out. So 2 s/lap is one stop per 20 laps, or ~45 minutes, by my estimate.
I hope I am not too late to submit, I was busy all day and was not thinking about the fact that Der Bayer is on Germany time. I have 2 cars to enter, do I give them the same racing number or different? Gonna post pics and some stats in a while, wanted to get this post up in case someone in my hemisphere knows when the submit deadline is.
Redhawk Performance Group (RPG) has announced they will be backing a race team in BRC for the 1976 season. This comes after someone got a picture of their race car (a pre-season build) with a rumored 7.5L Bigblock V8.
In the press release RPG gave today, they stated the car is based off the AEA Barracuda body and Uniframe, but is completely remade. They’re calling it: Barracuda RRE (Road Racing Edition).
Sporting the 10,5L V8 and Lap Times of 2.20 flat, this is not your ordinary pickup!
The observant might even notice the spoiler in the bed of the truck and the lip on top of the grille for max efficiency
(Just hoping this body is in the HighRes. believe it is but not 100% sure)
Ok, so this seems to be a David vs Goliath battle thing now, with some people opting for engines at over 10 liters, and others are trying to squeeze some power out of things like 2-3 liters. I do hope there’s more middle ground.
Well, it is stirring up some emotion at least, even if it is a bit of a glaring colour. The racing teal will be back on my other entry, more soothing to the eyes
Also, having similar issues to GenJeFT, slightly different numbers. Only issue on this car, other cars worked fine
@KielEire: There’s a minimum tyre profile limit - if your rims are too large relative to the outer diameter of the tyre, you can’t make the tyre any wider.
My process is generally this:
[ul]]Increase tyre diameter as much as possible./:m] ]Decrease rim diameter some. (Depends - some cars you can stop at 15 inches, other cars have to go down to 12 or 11.)/:m] ]Increase tyre width./:m] ]Discover that I didn’t flare the wheel arches enough./:m] ]Go back to the trim tab (with the two cars in the symbol) in the “Model” section and increase the flare on the wheel arches./:m] ]Go forward again to the tyre section./:m] ]Increase tyre width to maximum (265 in this case)./:m] ]Increase rim diameter to until tyre width drops (because the profile got too small again)./:m] ]When it does, decrease rim diameter by one inch and increase tyre width back to maximum./:m] ]Decrease wheel diameter until tyre width drops (same reason)./:m] ]Increase tyre width by 10 mm (I don’t know why, but if you increase it by only 5, it doesn’t work) and increase tyre width back to maximum./:m][/ul]
This will leave you with tyres with the minimum possible profile and largest possible rims for your specific car body.