Yeah I’m just rather curious what exactly taking care of the transmission means with this one.
Change fluid st the regular intervals and dont beat the crap out of it with neutral drops or aggressively changing gears yourself (basic care-taking)
They can last a while if you go easy on it even if they start whining or show other signs of failing
My driving style is basically the definition of chill so sounds like it should be fine
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I run the Civic ragged, but that slushbox is a tough machine. But I’m having the filter and fluid changed within the week. I should’ve done this when I bought the car, but I didn’t know just how solid it was. Now that I know it runs strong, I can justify putting more money into it.
I have a very specific one about winter tires.
I regularly see two versions of the same tire (i.e. Continental Wintercontact TS860 or Michelin Alpin 5)
- one of them speed index T (190 km/h)
- the other speed index H (210 km/h)
How comes the difference? And, more important, is there ANY disadvantage to the 210km/h rated ones if theyre about the same price?
I’d guess the only issue might be tire wear but I’m no expert
They most likely use slightly different compounds in the tires themselves, with the latter being able to handle more heat and friction. They would just have the same design and tread length.
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I’m indecisive as all hell so I want the forum to decide for me:
- 2005 Kia Opirus - 180k km - 200hp 3.5 - fully loaded
- 2004 Saab 9-3 sedan - 260k km - 150hp 2.0 - base level
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This is probably my 4th car purchase this year
Why 4th car this year?
The issue I see with both of those cars (especially the Saab), is that they have quite high mileage.
If you want a car, any car with mileage lower than 150.000 km in Finland you’ll have to dish out at least 8000€ probably, and that’s the reason for your question actually, continuous downgrading cause gotta use money for something else than cars for once (kill meeeeeeeeee I went from a 2010 V40 to this)
Wut?! See cars sold in Poland for high mileage… Then you’ll know what “high mileage” means 
180k is the value with which the dealers advertise their cars with falsed odometers… in reality having anything between 250-500k.
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Dumb question over here… is the downforce sliders in the U4 build enabled? or am I just doing something wrong?
Should only work with the downforce undertray. Semi and fully clad should never have had a downforce option, so that’s been fixed.
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What are those ugly rubber numberpad thingamajiggies some american cars have above the doorhandle?
This has been bugging me for years
combination lock i believe.
Those are a primitive keyless entry pad used by Fords (although many new ones still have them, but in touch screen format).
Each individual car has a specific code to unlock the doors, but the lock code is always 5-6 and 9-0.
I know that as my Tauruses both had it.
That’s… interesting
Remote locking by just the press of a button on the key seems a lot faster and easier
I thought it was just a gimmick. Also a backup in case you lock your keys in your car.
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Beats screwdrivers and a coat hanger. Or a crowbar if you’re taking an extreme measure.
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Why did a lot of cars intended for the US market in the mid to late 90’s and early 00’s have that weird gold-ish plastic cladding
