It’s a 1990 one, has the 3.0l V6, has 160k km on it and it’s fully original. Kind of a crappy situation because I just really want it but cause taxation I can’t really have two cars at once anymore so I’d have to daily it.
12 valve or 24 valve though? Huge difference, the 12v being the far more common engine. Could be either on a 1990.
They’re needy cars, bar the odd one. Suspension leaks happen as they’re getting old, things corrode, parts are hard to get other than second hand and it’s not like there are tons around to pick from. My experience of them right across all ages suggests electrical problems are par for the course as well (the best being the 1992 that decided headlights weren’t important in the middle of winter on a totally unlit country national speed limit road).
That said, they’re very cool, the drivetrains tend to be robust and if looked after it can only gain value. Just make sure it’s definitely your thing before committing.
Leo once joked (on a different i4 family) that the only thing worse than the 2v engine was the 4v engine. I don’t know if that applies to this family, but by god the 2v 90s Citroen engines were shit.
Also, most of their models from that time are highly temperamental and variable. At least that was my impression based on experience.
Sort of, the 12V PRV was a reliable enough thing but it was a bit flat and gutless (see DeLorean for the most common shot of that criticism) but the 24v was a screamer, relatively. Been lucky enough to have a run in an XM with one and the whole character of the engine, the noise, the power delivery, so so much better.
But yeah, the old TU engines and stuff are I guess what you’re referring to, not brilliant. 
When did I say that, I can’t recall it, or was it a different Leo? 
Stupid question
HOW THE ACTUAL FUCK DO YOU REMOVE A STRIPPED SCREW? (It’s also rusty, which doesn’t help)
@thecarlover is well versed on the subject of rust and taking long to remove rusted bolts, he might be of help.
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The answer is an angle grinder. Always an angle grinder.
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Or a drill, that also works nicely.
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To answer both, I think I will go for some WD40 first and hope for the best before I ruin the only good part left on the bike
Is the head of the screw fairly exposed? You could try welding a washer to it, then welding a nut to the washer and use a wrench to remove it. Usually the expansion from the heat will help break it loose. That technique also works if you snap the head off a bolt which I have done (many times)
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How stripped is the screw?
How large is the screw?
Is it Counter-sunk?
What kind of Head does it have?
If smaller than a #12 Phillips, use a rubber band, and press the screwdriver as HARD as you can down while twisting.
OR
Use an Impact driver.
If it is a TORX, or other multi pointed head, and you need it out. Use a super out bit (you hammer it in, than twist it out)
If there is NOTHING left to purchase you can angle grind off the head and if the threads are free spin it out.
If it is Counter-sunk you must DRILL off the head (tricky but doable)
If it is LARGER than #12 and the threads are stuck, you need to drill out the entire screw/bolt and use an extractor, OR completely drill out the bore and re-tap the whole to a larger size, OR install a thread coil kit.
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Not rly a dumb question but just like a survey for price differences:
Can everyone tell me how big the price difference is between a base spec Audi Q7 and a Tesla Model X?
The reason I’m asking this was I was lamenting the fact that electric cars are so expensive compared to equivalents, until I actually checked how expensive premium cars are here, and found out this:
To get a base level Audi Q7 you’d have to dish out over 100.000€, not even counting any of the countless options and engines you’ll probably choose.
A Range Rover starts at 150k, a RR Sport at 92k
If you’re willing to throw away badge snobbery you can get a fully decked out Peugeot 5008 GT for 44k
But a Tesla Model X starts at 95.000€ and a high spec one is around 120k. Which is odd because in every other class electric cars are much more expensive than the equivalents.
So I wondered, is a Tesla more or less expensive than equivalents where you live?
100k for a base model Q7? You get some seriously over the top pricings up there.
Base model 3.0 TDI Quattro is 66k in Austria, an SQ7 is 108k.
Model X is 92k.
Edit: BMW X6: 72k
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Definitvely expensive for a Q7.
In Canukistan, you need around 62,000$ to get a base model Q7
A Tesla Model X is 110,000$ base price.
Just found out the base price for a BMW X6 here is 110.000€
Why
Is there any reason to turn the ESP off on a Ford C-Max? My dad bought one for my mom and it has a big button on the dashboard to turn the ESP on/off.
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Just like on my Mazda 6, yes there is, but an average driver will not get into that much trouble to actually need it.
First of all, on an ice lake (yes, I’ve taken a mazda 6 there, it was for a “emergency counter measures” driving course), you will go faster and have more control (if you actually know what you’re doing). Also when in slippery conditions and you’re stuck (I.E. deep enough snow), you might actually need a bit of wheelspin to get yourself out of a situation. Other than that, you can… burnout… I guess…
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Getting yourself unstuck from soft ground is the main reason why this button exists. If you try to get out of your predicament without turning the ESP off, it’s just going to kill the power all the time.
Hooning and bad weather. I always turn mine off when I get the chance to practice spirited driving so that I’m sure I know how to manuver the car effectively, and that it’s not the computer doing it (on the Mazda. No other car I’ve owned has ever had traction or stability control). I do the same with ABS. Since I mostly drive beaters, I’d rather avoid using them in preparation for not having them than get complacent (although my cars are mostly beaters, I also drive my family’s cars a lot, most of which are 2012 or newer, meaning they have to have traction and stability control equipped. And I have to go back and forth between them a lot).