anyone know how to make automation paint look at least decent in beam?
im pretty much finished other than some fine tuning, looks better in automation though
[FINAL]
2000 Tsubasa Frenzy S (Facelifted)
Tsubasa facelifted the 1994 Frenzy in 2000, with this, the Frenzy S got a larger 1.6l inline 4 engine, and an exclusive bodykit, making the car wider on the roads.
The car was later bought by a driving school situated in New York, teaching many people how to get their leash on the road, being in service from July of '00 to October of '08.
After being decommissioned, it got bought by the current owner, which wanted to get into racing, and it got converted for Grassroots Racing.
The Tsubasa Frenzy was built as a competitor to the Covet which came later and the other likes of the compact car space. This model was the 3rd generation. It was overshadowed by its competition, but still sold steadily, selling about 120,000 in the year of 2000.
From the dealer :
After conversion :
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@yesnt4060 @neonbot2721 Hate to say it, but you guys are gonna have to remove the bullhorns and taxi signs 
However, I’ll let you keep the rear bumper delete @neonbot2721 because I used to race against some cars that had those (wasn’t thinking of them when making the rules; also, I’ll go ahead and add that to the list of allowed exterior mods)
Hey there, I find the 15 inch max rim size to be too small and looks weird on my race version. On the race version you also dont allow a tire diameter above 590 and the max offset to be 50mm which ends up looking super out of place.
That’s because I didn’t envision people entering huge sedans XD These rules are geared more toward the kinds of cars you’d find running a regular four-cylinder race at your average Saturday night paved oval track (pictures in OP for reference). I only made the max wheelbase so long because despite appearances, some of these cars have longer wheelbases than you’d think. Saturn S-series cars are a good example; they look small but they’re lowkey as big as a Mercedes CLK 320
aaaa dang, i went for a more modern looking body and only realized how cursed it looked after building the stock variant. Well pretty sure mine is gonna turn out the most cursed ahaha
Well, you can continue or start over with something different, your choice 
also one thing i dont get, seeming we are going in a circle why do brakes matter in the slightest seeming they wont even be needed?
To try and help people make these things realistic. People don’t mod their brakes irl for this stuff, so I don’t want people focusing on the wrong thing when they could be focusing on optimizing the engine’s response and the suspension tuning. I’ve just allowed a higher pad type in case people find that dabbing the brakes on corner entry helps (which it sometimes does, depending on how the car’s handling)
I imagine we will not be allowed to have a wheel size above 590? 600 is the smallest I can get on the car I’m trying.
I had to make an exception to that rule for someone else while teching their car, so you’re exempt from that too since you find yourself in the same situation
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Here’s my submission:
The Cirelli Orion was introduced to the market in the late 1980s as a compact 3 door hatchback, designed to compete with other fuel-efficient city cars. With an impressive 42 miles per gallon, it quickly gained traction among urban drivers and young families looking for practicality on a budget. Light on power but agile in handling, the Orion was praised as a fun and approachable hatchback for everyday use.
Over time, however, its weaknesses became apparent. Pushed hard or driven for extended periods, the early Orion’s engine suffered from overheating, excessive oil consumption and premature valve wear. These reliability issues gave the Orion a reputation for fragility and by the mid-1990s it had disappeared from the spotlight.
In the 2000s, Cirelli revived the Orion with a major facelift and a new 2.2L inline-four. While fuel economy dropped to 32 mpg, the engine delivered a stronger 150 hp and 170 Nm of torque, along with far better reliability. The refreshed design and improved durability transformed the Orion from a struggling economy hatchback into a respected all-rounder, winning back commuters while also finding use with small businesses, government fleets, and car enthusiasts.
You were able to find an Orion on Facebook market place for cheap and had the intention of turning it into an oval racer. Your bored out the engine turning it into a 2.3L. With some ECU adjustments and higher quality parts you were able to produce 180 horse power. To match the added performance, the suspension was stiffened, the chassis was reinforced and the interior stripped down for weight savings. What started as a commuter hatchback, was now turned into an oval racer.
That’s the story. The Oval version of the car is still a work in progress. It needs to be tuned a bit more and the interior is still being worked on
Ps. I just noticed I forgot the steering wheel on the base model. I’ll add it later lol
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@PistonHead @neonbot2721 If you guys want, I’d love if you could submit your .car files via DM for inspection
Yessir
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yeap, soon
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Forgot to post the decimal value for the minimum weight’s kg version, my bad!
To clarify, the exact minimum when correctly converted to kg is 1,088.62 kg. My apologies!
1 Like
[FINAL] Hossack Kingfisher ES
Ah, the ES. Hossack’s premier budget offering for the 4th Generation Kingfisher. Originally retailing for $12000, and sporting a basic, plastic interior more akin to a child’s model car, the finest cloth seats in Hossack’s parts bin, and the not-latest nor greatest 4 cylinder NA motor scavenged from the latest Hossack economy sedan. ..but it had a T-Top! That has to count for something!
To say the Kingfisher ES has aged well would be, well, about as far from the truth as we can get. But some madman decided that rather than let its composite panels decay in a field on the outskirts of town, he’d rebuild this old, outdated, redundant, and frankly horrific old “sports” car into a hobby stock. Smart? Probably not. Intriguing? Certainly.
The young man bought the ES for 700$ and a pack of True Blues and got to work. He bored out the motor from 1.9L to just above 2.0L, bumping its power from the factory 130hp to an estimated 172hp, after fitting some extra parts, and removing unnecessary ones. Cut springs and stiffer shocks complete the performance-oriented modifications to the car.
He stripped the interior of the car, fitted a cheaply welded roll-cage made of old steel piping, and put in a bucket seat. Then, he got to painting. Some spectators wish he hadn’t gotten to that step, with an eye-searing combination of high gloss White, high gloss Teal and metallic Heat Orange, the original colour of the car he brutalised modified. Then, after talks with some local companies, stickers were slapped. 25$ per sticker, per successfully finished heat, with a bonus from a few sponsors if he could manage a win in the A-Main.
His first race didn’t go as planned, and along with a few scrapes and tire marks, a few parts are held on now with cable ties and duct tape. But the next round is only a week away, who knows what will happen then.
2 Likes
you forgot the dang interior photos
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