Anyone know how to tune a race car suspension? I built this car and it keeps losing grip when turning (I think) does anyone know how to fix?
This would be a great idea, so why, then, do you insist on setting tire techpool to +5, just like every other area? Is it to simplify things?
This is to prevent the tires from exploding immediately upon spawning in Beam.
No, this would not be a great idea because the post you cited is from when strop didn’t realise that techpool does not mean quality slider. Quality slider for tires stays at 0. All techpool +5. This way the tires stay compliant and feels great in BeamNG while simplifying everything as you said.
One main thing is to not forget to iron out the oversteer after clicking the preset. Steering graph going down at the end and the car is your friend.
Preset??? All my cars have the steering graph going downwards but handle very differentley
Yes, just as in real life it is difficult to describe car handling quirks. Losing grip when turning can basically means anything. But if your steering graph is going down the car usually isn’t completely horrible to drive.
Also yes, by anything I mean anything. Even a well tuned car if you’re cornering way too fast it would lose grip when turning.
About the suspension presets, yes, it is a bit of a cheat code if someone doesn’t know the intricacies of suspension. Or even if they know but have to do it quickly. When I was making (by the time I made this thread the amount went into the 40s) test mules I certainly didn’t fine-tune them all. Just clicking preset, iron out the oversteer with camber, spring rate and aero device for high speed cornering, and most of them are at least competitive if not always perfect. The best cars, of course, I had to go back and fine tune them 3-4 times to completely iron out any suspension quirks.
I’ve chosen to adapt my first FM4 entry (which I cloned and tweaked for PAIN) for this challenge - with less weight than the original, and more grunt to exploit it (although it’s not a separate model, but merely a different trim powered by a more powerful engine variant). So far, it meets all the rules (except for advanced trim settings, for which I’ll have to state an exemption in the DM - specifically, chassis tunnel size, because I won’t be able to hide the tunnel otherwise) and sneaks in right at the $30k budget cap - just.
Also, the naming scheme for entries should be “TTTT - your forum username” for car model and engine family.
I’m also contemplating a second entry - I’m thinking of a lightweight mid-engined sports car powered by a low-displacement, high-revving four- or six-cylinder engine - as a counterpoint to my first submission here.
Yes, that will be the submission format. The reason I have not put it in the thread opening yet is because I don’t want early submissions.
The submissions will probably be open sometime in the middle of next week. After I return from a work trip.
I’m surprised you haven’t taken a note that the ruleset is specifically made so the entries from both FM4 and PAIN, along with a few other challenges can be easily adapted and submitted.
To alleviate some concern (of mine). I have created a video showcasing one of the car I’ve been using to practice the runs. Because I know that I may have to do it in some real ridiculous contraption. I guess it can be use to drum up more interests as well.
This is a mid-engine AWD car based on the prototype body with a lot of downforce. It is not made according to the ruleset, but to be as crazy overpowered as possible. The fastest time I have achieved is around 10 seconds faster than the legal mule.
It packs 1,410hp and weighs 1,090kg. So around 1,290hp/ton.
I also have to note that the run in this video would not count as legit run. I know it could be run a second or so quicker because I have already done so previously. There are a few mistakes here and there that if happen in actual challenge I’d reset and try again.
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My Armalite which I sent in to THRS Season 5 would fit more here. Since I’m not competive being heavier, lower power and on narrow sport tires compared to the others. But now I get to use my spec engine and tuning to maybe be as competive. Although maybe I too should build a sub 1000kg compact for this also.
Keen!
I have two test builds so far - a relatively ‘normal’ powered hatch, and a higher powered sedan. The hatch is consistently faster by a lot, even with 2/3 the power (and ~20% less weight).
You guys may be wondering what’s the relevance of a subjective leaderboard in a challenge with time trial in it’s name? So let’s have another video showcasing another test mule, even if it’s not exactly legal. (It did pave the way to the ruleset you currently have).
This car is closely related to one of my PAIN entry. Although it is very much NOT the same car. It’s a big, heavy, rear wheel driven sedan with 500 something horsepower. Due to it’s weight it’s not likely to be competitive in the timed section. In fact, it is around 8-9 seconds behind the fastest test mule I have.
It doesn’t mean the car isn’t great to drive. I’ll not pretend to be the greatest BeamNG drifter ever but with this car forgiving handling and ample power it is one of those car I keep coming back to. Not to attack the timesheet but to make it go sideways.
With this, it make sense to allow 2 entries per person. So there’s no dilemma of which direction to aim for.
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omg how do you drift like that I keep trying to make cars that can do drifts but whenever I try to drift it just doesn’t end up working at all that’s super impressive!
An old front wheel fryer for drifting???
The 1985 Primus Astrona 200 GLS was the hottest tool in the box in terms of mid-range performance sedans. Efficient and nimble like no other, it concealed the transverse FWD drive and handled like an L-RWD. Really!
This one has been severely modified for amateur racing, however, it might also score well on a downhill drift track. It even features modern driving aids since it is used as racing school car, but it drives fine without any of these activated.
That thing even turns??
A 2003 Globus Dominator is already quite the peak of straightline performance. The R/T model excels this with more than 500 horsepower smoking the rear wheels. You better steer with the gas pedal instead of the wheel which is useless anyway.
IMPORTANT: Set driving aids to “Sport”. With them fully activated you will understeer and see the three when crashing into it, if you deactivate them the car overpowers so bad that you will hear the tree you slide uncontrollably into.
200 Inches long, 75 wide, two tons of Gasmean Pride!
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Another day, another run showcase.
This time I’m demonstrating retro car. This one is the lore version of my LHC car. Inspired by old homologation special, it’s equipped with 200-ish horsepower inline-6 driving the rear wheels on (radial) semi-slick. It drives like a retro race car that it is. It likes to be sideways everywhere it goes but in a very controllable manner.
Again, this would do nothing to the timed leaderboard. Fun leaderboard though? It’d certainly be up there among the best. Despite this, I can confirm that you definitely can make a decently fast pre-1980’s car. In fact the recipe might not even be that different from more modern cars.
The submission will open in a few days. I’m looking forward to seeing what you guys come up with!
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…any tips or advice for people that don’t really tune or make cars to drive in Beam.NG?
first tip is to make the suspension a lot stiffer than automation suggests, same for the anti-roll bars. The car will probably be a bit heavier in beam too
Stiffer springs are better but if you don’t have enough suspension travel, it might cause the wheels to lift off. Beam only has Standard and Progressive springs simulated so the other suspension options won’t have an effect in Beam. If you’re experiencing too much oversteer, try increasing rear wheel camber. For Touge specifically having more oversteer is good because it makes car turn better (I think)
I’m getting grip rolls
If your car is getting grip roll it usually means the car is too light, tall, narrow, grippy, or whatever combination it can be from that set of characteristic. As tempting as it is, tall (or even low) kei-cars with extremely wide tires might not be the ideal solution to this challenge. I’m only noting this because it is literally the only handling quirk I have found in testing that would DQ the car.
Only other quirks that might DQ the car too is perhaps the oversteer handling graph (steering graph going up) which I have not tested because you don’t want to intentionally set up the car that way. The reason for that is I will not be changing the steering angle in BeamNG to accommodates extreme tail happiness.
However, this is not to stop you guys from setting the car up to oversteer if you wish to do so. After all, it should not be my decision as to what’s being submitted. If it’s too much for me to drive I’ll just relay back that it’s not possible to complete the run and you get one resubmission regardless.
Someone tell me what a ‘grip roll’ is please? 
It’s when the car has so much grip that when it turns into a corner the inside wheels lift up and the car rolls onto it’s side or roof just from how much friction the tires/suspension/aero makes it generate.