i kept an original file as back up instead of cloning in game… my bad haha
Also, Rough start for me with the slowest time.
Bunch of IRL, abridged and delayed post, apologies, new times for today are:
- @br1ckfield3r - Improves time to 17.98
- ManicMiata on Discord - Uses a CVT and has unacceptably low reliability (29.0, rather than 40.0). Entry is DSQed, especially because the CVT is the only reason it hits 45 drivability.
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Well ended up taking the sledgehammer approach with my second revision, added 200hp (now above 4 digits) for less than 1 second gain. Damn @br1ckfield3r you’ve got some serious tuning skill for a sub 18 second.
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Thanks! To be fair my cursed van wouldn’t win any design votes with the maxxed out ground clearance and 11 inch rims 
. What sort of forced induction setup are you running?
~40Lbs of boost from a huge single turbo. Then a mild cam, 100 springs, and revving the nuts out of it pass peak and even pass safety limits for usable power curve. Currently about 1035hp with about 2500rpm worth of boost range to shift in, I’ll play around with the clearance, I’m still sitting fairly low and running 17’s, but I did manage to crack 20 seconds.
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I think my biggest issue currently is traction, I have a nice usable power curve and around 980hp.
I have room on the driveability for more power but I think I’ll have to switch from a compound turbo with 4.5Bar to something else. We’ll see how I do today and then it’ll be back to the drawing board
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New times for today:
@Riley - 20.41 Seconds - would be second, except…
@nialloftara - 19.99 Seconds - Just shaving off enough to stay in second place.
As before, the standings are here.
Today’s visual shoutout is Niall’s entry, the Centauri Tuned Van. It’s had two incarnations thus far, with slight tweaks between them. The rocket engine exhaust is a whimsical touch, and the massive, bombastic aero looks really cool. The first incarnation has excessive cooling which I prefer aesthetically (but I can see why you got rid of it).
Also, a rules update! Cloning the cars is no longer mandatory, only recommended. Why? Well, the game has a neat little pop-up to resolve this by cloning upon import. I’m going to run into overlaps like this anyway when people submit the second or third time, and it’s easier for me to click this than it is to tell you to clone every single time.
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I liked the first look too… but considering my cooling aero is like 5 I couldn’t justify it realistically when I rebuilt the car last night. Also that exhaust tip is roughly size accurate to the pipe 
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You guys are pushing a thousand hp? Mine’s only at 750
My first revision was with about 850hp.
I’ve got a pretty similar setup, also limited by the springs. I am using a 6 speed sequential so I can afford to have a narrower useable rev range and more top end power. I’m also using smart boost so I set custom boost limits at different RPMs. The boost limit starts at 5 bar (72 psi) but tapers down to 2.7 bar (40 psi) at high RPMs for much better efficiency. I’ve got about 1200 hp with my current setup I think, but the rev range is a little too narrow and it’s hurting me. I was considering a compound/sequential turbo setup to address the lower end of the rev range, but could not figure out how to tune them
1200?!? lol, that … thats why im so slow, i built mine with out stressing the engine… 400ish from mine at first tune lol
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As a general tip: The further you are from those minimum requirements, the more time you have left on the table. Reliability doesn’t earn points so long as the number shows 40.0 or more.
Also, for a bit of clarification, the number I’m checking is the value in the designer (which rounds to the nearest 0.1), not the value in the car list (which rounds down to the next whole number) or in the various places that show more precision (F9, CSVExporter).
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You can definitely run your engine into significant stress and just make up reliability in other spots. I’ve got around 30% RPM penalties on the internals, race intake, and really low engine cooling. 800 at least is doable without going too overboard, and you can get a lot higher with some quality. Are you NA with 400 hp?
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That’s doubly true given the way the new reliability system works, too.
Remember, “30% RPM Penalty” doesn’t mean “your reliability is 30% lower”. It means “one component in the complicated reliability formula is being dragged down, but you can offset that through quality and by averaging everything out across the engine”.
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Found almost a full second since this morning thanks for that ride height tip, knocking on the door of the 18 second range 
. I’m literally on a boat right now so I’m tuning on a handheld during downtime at work so forgive the screenshot, but here’s a quick look at the engine, it’s not 1200, thats just insane (also cool trick with the smart boost didn’t know about that feature) , but it is a fairly useable 1050ish with a traditional waste gate and a 6 speed manual.
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Automation on a boat has to be a first 
. If you have a useable rev range you could even use a 5 speed manual. Each shift is 300-400 ms lost, which adds up a lot. An added benefit is that a 5 speed handles torque better and your reliability will improve. A sequential is even better for shift speed, but I had to sacrifice a lot to keep all my stats high enough after the change.
Got mine up to 910 HP but can’t seem to get sub 20s
no just tuned Turbos for to broad of rpm range like a street car. ( lol )
Retuned and got 850hp and ran the revs up to 7500 with solid reliability.
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Okay, today’s entries:
@nialloftara - Improved to 19.10 seconds
@RyoMotoCo - Improved to 22.10 seconds
Today’s visual showcase is @br1ckfield3r. The first one is on the right, and uh… Bronze and green two-tone is quite the choice, and I’m the two-tone apologist around here. Swapping to black and chrome was definitely a good choice, but it’s so reflective and shiny that even the pain looks chrome in certain photoscenes - getting a good black paint is real hard in Auto. The use of multiple stamped versions of the same default sticker on the new one is pretty nice.
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