I think my driver side tie rods need to be replaced on my 2004 Alero
so now I have to drive my dad’s convertible (1998 Sebring)
The wipers on my Taurus like to move to the up position when they’re shut off and I need to fiddle with the switch to get them to rest in their proper spot. Also the starter motor may be going on it. I’ve only replaced it twice in the last four years.
1 Like
Yesterday I woke up to find my Alfa had a drained battery, no idea why as it was only a few days of not driving. Funny thing is later in the evening I did a 300mile round trip completely last minute. This is where I discovered a serious problem.
So for most of the trip I was cruising at around 75/80mph as per usual with no issue at all, on the way back home I found that after 85mph my car vibrates like mad.
The car made the trip though which means other than that my car seems to be fine (strangely)
After this happened, nothing remarkable has broken in my Yamaha…
So I was driving about 1.5 yrs ago on a countryside road, when the engine just stopped. Flat-out stopped from 7000rpm. Or in other words, it seized up.
After some fierce pushing, we noticed that my bike was leaking oil from a old, dried-up gasket in the oil line. Almost all of the oil was dripping out of it and sliding down the engine block. The oil was so close reaching the engine, but didn’t.
The block was bored up a bit and a new oversized piston was fitted. (A surprisingly cheap operation at a mechanic, come think of it) After that, it hasn’t had major issues.
Fixed that for you. 
I take it that’ll be something to do with the bent wheel being out of balance?
2 Likes
Hehe thanks, now everyone knows I have a private test track 
Basically yes, the garage I took the car to tried to balance it but it wasn’t possible, the wheel got moved onto the back as it was scuffing thr caliper on the front, £30 for a new alloy with legal tyre ain’t too bad though, thanks eBay.
1 Like
I just discovered why the Civic was ony $1200 despite its relatively unmolested appearance. The hood latch is major nuisance. That and the starter died. But my spirit is undampened, as I have new contacts willing to assist me for cheap. And also get me through inspection (it’s structurally sound, worry not).
Hood latch probably needs nothing more than a good bunch of oil.
Unless it is actually damaged and not just stuck.
I already tried lubricating the shit out of it.
That fucker is most likely damaged.
Time to get hood pins for that mofo 
1 Like
yeah similiar problem.
the bore up and the new bigger block isn’t that expensive, if at all… it’s the operation and the overhaul that’s frigging expensive.
Something. Probably temperature sensor. Didn’t pass inspection because of emissions. (No, it’s not a VW)
I left the black turbo brick I call “Lolvo eight fiddy” at my cousin’s and we’ll find out soon what the problem is. It was running in a way that felt normal and according to the dashboard computer it’s not drinking too much fuel either, so that’s weird.
Edit: Cousin is 99% sure the spark plugs need changing, on accounta some Volvo owner’s forum poster having the same symptoms and new plugs helping them, and the fact that the plugs haven’t been changed while I have had the car. I don’t understand why that would cause the emissions to be like that though.
1 Like
Likely just a weak spark then. May as well do plug wires and a distributor rotor and cap while you’re at it.
As for why it will affect emissions; a weaker spark can cause slower flame propagation and incomplete combustion. You might not feel a significant power loss, but the combustion by-products are increased by a significant amount.
I remember when my Altima’s battery had a short and just barely started that day. After I got a new battery, I took out my plugs and shined a flashlight down there to look at my pistons; and everything was covered in black soot. Looked like a 30 year old diesel.
A couple of days ago, I had my Altima’s right rear wheel cylinder leak brake fluid. Found that one out by the BRAKE idiot-light going off and finding a puddle of fluid under the wheel. No big deal though; $60 and about an hour at the mechanic. That’s the 4th failure the Altima’s had in her 17 years of life. The others were a PCV valve, valve cover gasket, and a thermostat.
I need to replace the axles at some point; as the CV joints are clicking on U-Turns… but not sure what to do about that. I hear the aftermarket ones are made off petrified cardboard, the rebuilt ones are just re-greased old ones, and Nissan ones cost $450 a piece… so changing both pretty much equals the value of my Altima as a whole.
Also… WTF is up with those brake prices earlier? 
I bought Centric Premium discs for $40 a piece and a set of Akebono ceramic pads for $44 for my Altima a year ago. I know newer cars weigh more and have larger brakes, along with a ton of “elektronikz”… but seriously… WTF?
In total I paid around $135 for the parts shipped, and my mechanic wanted about 65 bucks for the work.
Thanks for the explanation, that makes sense. I’m pretty sure that’s exactly what is happening.
2 Likes
Yeah even after clarifying, the brake pads for my specific model are insano expensive.
So that’s $575 from the official Honda Service Center for 2 pads and calipers. I assume a decent chunk of that (like 150-180) is labour which I’ll pay because I’m keeping everything logged via the same service center (better resale for people who like a car with a little certainty in the history, hopefully… though the same kind of buyer might be turned off by the rare colour of my car). But as for the brake pads, when buying the car what I didn’t realise was that the UK spec pads are extremely soft and expensive, and also bias to the rear under light braking so I have to replace the rears (not under warranty, standard wear and tear) every 30000km. The fronts last 50000km. Which isn’t a whole lot by brake standards. I think I ranted about this before when I had to replace the rears lol, it’s the single most expensive thing about maintaining this car.
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2201688
As you can see it’s a known issue 
On the plus side even though I do pay an average of 240AUD every 6 months for standard servicing, the rest of the car runs without a hiccup (except maybe the sticky power window).
2 Likes
That’s just obscene man… Honda’s milking you dry. 
It’s the one reason why I might not keep this car for 10 years.
Then again once the warranty expires, if I’m going to be keeping the car until I switch energy source, then I don’t really care about resale and at this point you bet I’m going to be using aftermarket and probably modding it
Hang on why are you replacing the calipers as well?
1 Like
Just changed the starter, hood latch, and neutral safety switch on the Civic (didn’t go bad yet, but it was getting there). Did I mention that the hood latch got so bad that I couldn’t open the hood for about 4 days? It took 3 guys, a pry bar, and a hammer to force it open enough to change the latch. Good thing my new friend at work also happens to be a mechanic.
Well, i don’t own a car however I own a moped, and someone pushed it over and broke the throttle, brakes and right blinker
1 Like