2000 Lincoln Town Car

Anybody who’s spent more than a few passing seconds with me on the IRC/Discord knows I’ve been searching for quite some time for a suitable car. After many shit craigslist posts, I’ve finally settled on this Lincoln Town Car.

I’m more than positive you know the basic Town Car Formula. Crown Victoria with Air suspension, leather interior, power seats,etc… and the famous 4.6 Modular V8 making 210 Red White and Blue horsepowers, and it is about the same size, and weighs nearly as much as the red dodge caravan parked next to it.
This particular Town Car has thus far done 205,000 miles. I believe I am the third or fourth owner. I purchased it for 960$, and for that I think I got quite a good deal. As far as modding goes, unless @Lordred has the turbos from his old crown victoria lying around in a bin somewhere, I’m going to keep it as is. :stuck_out_tongue: Perfect car for driving in my somewhat narrow city streets, I know.


Turbo, singular. It wasnt worth it in the end. Pings with 4lbs

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OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLD. :stuck_out_tongue:

Still like the car. NarfyNarf.

I cannot stress enough the use of good synthetic oil, and a Wix or Motorcraft oil filter.

I’m not sure the last time the oil was changed, so I was going to change it soon anyways. But as far as getting an oil filter, should I just walk into autozone and grab an oil filter, or would you reccomend ordering it specifically for this car off ford’s website? Also, I’ve heard to change oil every 4,000 miles, but how often did you change yours?

I’m sure every auto parts store in North America carries a decent oil filter for this car, I would just avoid the cheap Frams. The best deal on synthetic oil is usually the 5 quart jugs at Walmart, and changing any sooner than 5000 miles is a waste of money. If it were my car I would also consider changing out the coolant, brake fluid, trans fluid and diff oil.

Congrats on joining the modular ford club. Look after it and she will go forever. If you want more power down the line I highly recommend importingand swapping in a australian 3 valve or 4 valve 5.4. The car is gorgeous btw much better than our LTD’s of the same year

Napa golds are Wix filters, get one of those.

Should be a 51372 Wix, or 1372 Napa.

Use 5w-20 oil. Thick oil kills mod motors.

Ninja edit; I ran 0W-20 Ams oil with 15,000k drains.


The Proper care and feeding of Panthers

Engine Oil: Run only Tier 4 Synthetic 5w-20 (or 0w-20 if you know the engine is in fantastic shape) Motorcraft Synthetic, Mobil 1, or Ams-Oil
Interval: 7,500 Miles (or 15k with 7,500 oil filter change)

Engine Coolant: Peak Global Lifetime, change every 4 years.

Engine Oil Filter: Motorcraft, or Wix/Mann. No exceptions.
Interval: 7,500 Miles

Engine Air Filter: Motorcraft, or Wix/Mann. No exceptions.
Interval: 15,000 Miles

Fuel Filter: Motorcraft, Wix/Mann, or Racor. No exceptions.
Interval: 30,000 Miles

Transmission Filter: Motorcraft, or Spax-Filtran
Interval: 50,000 Miles

Transmission Fluid: Type-Mercon V: Motorcraft, Valvoline, Mobil 1, or Ams-Oil
Invertal: 50,000 Miles

Power Steering Fluid: Type-Mercon V: Motorcraft, Valvoline, Mobil 1, or Ams-Oil
Interval: 50,000 Miles

Differential Fluid: 75w-90 Synthetic: Motorcraft, Valvoline, or Ams-Oil
Interval: 100,000 Miles

Brake Fluid: DOT-4 (any reputable company)

You have just purchased a 16 year old Panther with 200k Miles. Please check/change the following:

Brake Fluid: Suck everything out of the reservoir, re-fill, and bleed whole system, you will thank me.

Power Steering Fluid: Flush it, remove the return line from the reservoir, put into a 5-gal bucket, and pour fresh fluid into the reservoir as some one SLOWLY turns the wheel with the engine running, when fresh fluid comes out of the return hose, turn off, re-connect hose, and fill reservoir.

CHECK: Tie-rods, Ball-joints, U-Joints, and Sway-bar Links. The original ones are non-greasable, you likely still have them on, save up and consider replacement in the near future. It will ride SO much better. Use only Moog, or Motorcraft. Alternative: Replace entire control arms with new units by Dorman.

CHECK: Air ride system, it is 16 years old, if the rear air shocks are leaking, do not dispair. Find a parts house which can order from World Pac, replacement units by Arnott are quite affordable.

REPLACE: Front Oxygen sensors, they are likely responding slowly by now, they have 200k miles on them. New ones respond quickly and will make the engine run much better. (If you need to pass smog inspections, consider replacing the rear O2 sensors as well)

Door Seals: Use a good quality silicon spray lubricant on the door seals, it will keep them supple and will give you the best results.

INSPECT: Spark plugs, Gap spec is 0.054in Run only Platinum, or Iridium plugs, you want to take the plugs out of the heads as few times as you can on this motor. Autolite, or NGK.

Prepair for: You have 200k miles, and you have a COP engine (Coil over Plug) expect them to start failing soon. They are ~$50ea, if you get a misfire code for a specific cylinder, swap the coil on that cylinder with another, if the miss follows the coil, change it.

For starters.


Someone knows their cars really well! @Lordred

I’d just add the only problems my family’s ever had with similar cars:

2000-something Lincoln Continental with the 4.6

We had to get a new trans for ours when we got it (know issue) because the case had cracked. (it was a FF car) That was caused by a small heat shield material between the exhaust and trans crumbling due to general use (it had over 150,000 miles I think from highway use.)

Maybe replacing a coil pack or two?
And Fuel filter plugging up. That’s about it. My dad got rid of it due to its fuel economy.


Neat car! This model of Town Car is example how to effectively squeeze (straight-line) performance out of every horsepower.

Mm… Delicioso. It is vomiting it’s fluid’s at me.

Disclaimer. Not the car’s fault. I noticed the A/C was shite, and tried to solve it with a can of Freon. Only to have it vomited into my face. At least I know why now…