Better Springs/Dampers/Sway bars resulting worse track time

I was experimenting with options on Springs/Dampers/Sway bars and checking the times on track(automation 4807m). I used automatic adjusting for tunning(Sport). And even though stast od drivability and sportines got better track times were getting worse… I tried that on multiple cars and results where most of the time the same better optnions resulting in whorse time
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That’s not the game’s fault. You haven’t put a good tune on it. If you post a screenshot of the entire suspension tab maybe we can help you understand the different components and how to read the graphs, etc

Also, the sport suspension has the option of manual adjustability, but doesn’t adjust itself according to the track - that’s not how it works at all.

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Also, the sport suspension preset will almost always make the car bottom out…


Standard springs and twin-tube dumpers were usualy a second faster than Active sport springs with semi-active dampers, could you guys try it with yours cars on which setting you get faster results.

It wouldn’t make sense for us to prove to you that it is faster because inevitably the tuning will have to be adjusted - simply silly to try to demonstrate using different cars. It wouldn’t be a fair test. Why don’t you make a screenshot of the suspension tab or export the car and share it here?

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Results for standard, twin-tube

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Results for Active-Sport and semi active dampers

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The main difference comes from increased weight. The more advanced components are a lot heavier.


Yes, but it doesn’t change anything on the fact they make car slower, what is the use for advanced springs on sport car if it slows the car

@baker damn that’s a fast car!
(and please attach all pictures in one post next time, no need to make three individual posts)

I’m no expert but I’ll take a shot at explaining it.

here, you see that the car is bottoming out (-4.6%)? That should be at zero. Basically, spring rate tells you how much the spring resists compression. As you can see your front springs are really soft. This means your suspension is getting squashed to the point where it can no longer absorb impact/hold weight (it has run out of travel) - called bottoming out. What you can do to offset this:

  1. is to raise both front and rear spring rates in the same ratio until they offer enough countering force.
  2. raise ride height so that the suspension has a greater range of travel.

to make the car faster, you need to also play with the camber, as your car is rear-heavy, the rear tyres should have more negative camber to have a lower spring rate compared to the front.

It all comes down to your setup. Active suspension will not necessarily be faster, just more heavy and expensive.


ramthecowy: Forum did’t let me put more than one picture into one post … some rule for new users

With these settings on the picture you talking about the car is actually faster than with better setting on second picture, … that is the main point.

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The purpose of active components are really to adjust to different conditions so that the car is capable of being both civilised and sportier. But it compromises itself by being heavy as already mentioned. As far as we can tell the lighter setup will still be capable of cornering faster.

What really gets me is that there’s barely any difference between using gas monotube to semi-active dampers, and passive to active sway bars. You should try that too and see what happens.

As I already written the most basic choice in each category get me the fastes results, the twin-tune dampers and passie sway bars wery faster than semi acive dampers and active sway bars.

That part I’m skeptical about, up to this point they didn’t have much difference but I was able to get faster times with the active dampers and sway bars (if just barely). I’ll go back and take another look at this when I have time (probably in 2 days)

See how the front and rear wheels are bouncing? Increase your dampers and sway bars. The softer you can keep the suspension whilst maintaining equal weight transfer balance and centre of gravity the better

0.8km/mm is really too soft wouldn’t you say?

“0.8km/mm is really too soft wouldn’t you say?” … so why doe’s it go faster with these settings ?

Hey buddie, they already told you
that’s why it ended up faster, period.
The best stats will help you sell the car (example, a car that is relatively stiff but at the same time it is still a little bit comfortable) not everything is about speed.

Also, there are certain combinations that let you go with more extreme set-ups, without screwing the driving characteristics (like too soft but not bottoming out or too hard but without much comfort penalty). But, if you learn to configure the suspension and stop using the presets you can get faster results even using a combination of active/passive components.

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