Quick question, how do I calculate my car’s cost, I see where engine material cost and prod. units are, but not trim costs and prod. units. Thanks.
If you run Brobot while building your car it will help a ton as you can see total car costs move around. I made the mistake of not doing this and had to subtract 17k from my car in tech. Surprisingly easy to do.
Thats awesome, hmmmmmmm need to drop 4k it seems… not too bad hopefully, seeing as my car should be running 2:08-ish on flying laps
Bans TheBobWiley’s entry so she wont’ be bumped “off the bubble” in lap times
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I got a bit carried away just trying to do stupid stuff and see if its submitable. This car does not follow the rules and cannot be submitted but it might be a laugh, I tried to make the boat competitive and it morphed into a giant monster.
At least it will make a killing in the C. Super, Super, and Hyper markets.
Its a monster.zip (24.0 KB)
So I just spent all day designing cars for this and the fastest I could get is a 2:15, that is however at a cost of <$6000 so i’ve got a fair bit left for playing around with sliders, any advice on what sliders would have the most effect?
EDIT: was looking at the wrong figure, closer to $9000, but it’s now under the magic 2:14 mark
Always more power lad, always more power.
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Of course, is 400hp from a 2l good enough, considering it’s 960kg
Did you consider your fuel consumption as well?
yeah its not too bad i don’t think, will have to wait till tuesday for a proper test
Does anyone have rough idea of how much time is lost by the standing start? Im trying to compare my times to the practice sessions but I’m not sure how competitive i actually am with a 2:13.5 from standing.
The loss from a standing start would depend on your car, if your car is slow off the line and makes up time in sector 2 and 3 then there will be a big loss from standing start, if your’e fast off the line then your times aren’t going to be affected as much, but you will be slower in the race, if you can sacrifice overall lap time on ATT for speed in sectors 2 and 3 you will test better
Every time I think i’m done and can’t make it any faster without hurting economy I somehow knock a second off my lap time, currently at 2:11, earlier yesterday i was struggling to get under the 2:17 mark
I spent a few hours looking at my suspension tuning and I’m faster than I was this time last week with an economy tune on the engine that takes around 60hp from it, only thing is, with a MR car and rears at -3 camber my rear tyre wear is going to be awful until I find a work around for it.
I actually managed to get down to 2:11 with a -1.8 or -1.9 camber. The top speed of 240 kph is by sheer brute force.
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I suspect you lack knowledge on how to tune a MR so I suggest you look at killrobs videos on how to build cars for brc 55 and 66. No need for -3 camber 
Oh the joys of MR cars. They should be so easy…alas they are not! Or maybe it’s just my lack of experience. I dunno.
Either way, @BailsMackenzie, Killrob’s videos will come in tres handy.
wait…-3 camber on MR car? How do you steer it? Every MR car i’ve built fought tooth and nail against going beyond -1 camber without drag steelies on the front end of it. Voodoo magic I tell ya!
Speaking of voodoo magic…what diety are y’all wroshiping to get 2:10s in under $10k? I can break the 2:12 barrier…at $14k, but bringing it back into budget and I’m right back up at 2:16 again. I’m also beginning to think OHV may be hitting a brick wall at 2:17. Anyone taken OHV lower? So many questions, not nearly enough time to find all the answers!
My car ran 2:12.68 from a standing start on ATT. Mine is MR with a 4 liter DOHC Flatplane V8 making 387 hp in the high rev range. I just threw most of my money into the drivetrain and aerodynamics. Mine has -1.70 camber out back so as to reduce wear. It ran 2:10s with -3 camber, but I don’t want to wear out my tires too quickly, since my drivability/sportiness ratio isn’t the best.