same story. except… you have about 80HP more than i do, with the same body, but we have the same top speed… just how much downforce are you doing?
We have a FWD. That front tyre wear was not lying.
Fairly little, 0kg front and between 30 and 40kg rear.
My car is intentionally geared to a lower top speed for better acceleration. It hits the top speed on the ATT and on Hockenheim and goes RNRNRNRNRNRNRN for miles on SPA. It could do 300km/h if I let it.
It will be quite interesting to watch how the races unfold. I hear worries about -1,5 camber while sitting at -3 front and rear myself. 276km/h might not be enough for Hockenheim, but saving almost 1 sec/lap on the five tighter tracks is worth it I believe. Engine reliability of 25 is hopefully just one breakdown in the series, feel like that’s the biggest gamble. 70 downforce, with 35 front and 70 rear for me 
you what? daaamnn…
yeah that’s what worries me
I’m running 0 downforce, which results it +5kg or front and back. It seems Spa and Hockenheim will be places for me. Just hope I do not blow there…
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-3 camber is possible without too much penalty due to driving on sports tyres instead of semi slicks. For the first couple of laps I could have saved about 2 seconds running slicks, but total time after 8 laps would be worse with that camber. In order to save enough tires to run consistent times the slicks setup became a little bit slower than the sports tyres. And I am the only one in top 10 fastest single times running sports, wonder if it’ll pay off, but I have my hopes 
Im just hoping that if I blow somewhere it is in those tracks 
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My car on sports tires is only running 1.2F and 1.4R for camber settings.
Sports with 2.0front and 1.6 rear.
So if you look at last test you had a 13% wear while I had 18,5%
From best to worst lap I had a 4,02 second difference while you had a difference of 1,38 seconds difference, giving you incredibly steady lap times, so if you could go without a single stop it would be really competitive, or if you dropped the laptimes by a second.
I plan on running 1 stop pit strategy for most races. My economy should be right near the limit to be able to do so on most tracks.
Looking at that lineup I sink my head in shame. I must have done something wrong as my car looks to be among if not the slowest car on the list. And I was barely able to meet price and weight regulations.
You should have plenty to go on in the races then. Comparing to the last preseason test where you where running slicks your lap times only dropped by 2 seconds in 12 laps, so if you have gotten that consumption a bit more under control and switched to sports you should be good in regards to wear at least. By switching you should save around 45-50% (from 36% to 19% wear on my car)
Edit: Please let me know if I go on for too long/much and get longwinded in these comments. As I have spent about 40hrs on this event since it’s holdiay I’m probably way to invested. Do not want to become boring or repetitive while still keeping the discussion going!
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AFAIK brobot does take into account revs (doesn’t it?) when calcualting the chance for it to explode. Running into the rev limiter for minutes doesn’t do good to a race engine
wait … how did you test?
Hockenheim, Spa and Nordschleife I should be in the upper rankings as I seem to be way better there compared to ATT. For the smaller tracks idk, I hope acceleration just does the job. Except for Betonschleife they only have straights and very tight corners.
@Puffster I see no problem there. Some discussion is a good thing. And according to Steam I also added about 40 hrs of playtime while tuning for BRC.
Pfft, your car looks like a drifter 
I think your car looks pretty good though, The cornering is really competitive, I think the only real problem is it’s under powered, If you went and plonked an engine with an extra 100HP in it I think it’d be well up. What was your in game automation track time?
Nowhere near the others, around 2:20. Enough to qualify, but unless all the faster cars blow up or wreck, I doubt mine will have much to go on.
Thats probably due to the OHV head.
Well, for what it’s worth, I drop in a 285HP engine into my car and fixed the cooling and the gearing for it and I got a mid 2:18. So, if you take away being under powered, it’s well up compared to most cars.
But yeah, this might be tough one. There’s a couple you will probably beat, so points are on the table I think if you get lucky with a few people retiring.
I think I may be the only one running this body. Woot! (also I wish I could change just one more then about the race car, but that time has passed.)
The 1976 LHE Orbital Mark II (Modified) P31 Interceptor.
With an extensive pre-season event LHE found that their new sports car model, the Listie still had some nasty growing pains to get through, so they decided to re-enter the BRC with the Orbital line.
"With the fairly loose rules for the event, we (LHE) were able to take an existing production car and make whatever modifications we wanted, we basically took the car back to the frame and started over. An all new body was produced out of aluminum to match the shape of the Orbital, the rear axle was updated to a 4-link semi-trailing arm configuration. Overall we shaved over 200kg off the production variant.
While we had hoped to enter this years event with our new main line production SX8Ti motor, it hadn’t had enough time for development to race application, our Race Vehicle Operations has had a new power plant in the works, and it just so happened to be a match."
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oooh just noticed pyrlix is going with FF again… i don’t think it’ll do as well as it did last season… but let’s see…
also, -2.2 camber F/R on slicks. over the 20 laps test, i lost nearly as much as 20 secs.
this time, it’s gonna be like 30 secs, but hey, i’m changing my tires as often as i can this time,
2 pit stops means i never have a full fuel tank
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i dont remember prylix doing well in early season, but he doing well on later season