Please read this: hooniverse.com/2010/01/14/dont-b … -it-means/
It makes no difference what so ever if you are geared properly.
[quote=“BlastersPewPew”]
[quote=“TheBobWiley”]So today’s update changed my engine configuration… so much for 5 hours of precise tuning last night 
EDIT: Not gonna complain, picked up an extra HP and 2 mph top speed for the same weight ratio 
Double EDIT: Car costs over x2 as much… wtf… read the patch notes, but nothing seems like it should have changed costs unless quality sliders got massively buffed?[/quote]
I had the same issue earlier, turned out I had a couple corrupted game files that after I had Steam re-verify all the calculations changed. I have a feeling something in my (and probably your) game messed with the calculations enough to make us THINK we had something we didnt. When yours updated it probably overwrote some of the files and now they are correct.
EDIT: Just checked mine, I am again $545 OVER the $7k limit and I didnt change anything…wait a second…the game reverted my engine name back to what it was before, going to insert the files I sent Der Bayer back in and see what happens, those were named properly.
EDIT 2: I had to delete EVERYTHING and copy back from my saved zip file, everything looks good now.[/quote]
Yeah, my files have gone wonky in the automation folder, 2 different files have appeared for my car and the older file name for my engine that I deleted last night has returned and replaced the engine file I was working on last night… Sigh, looks like my all nighter was for naught 
Also, pretty sure slider costs got buffed up, had to bring my +12 brakes to +4 to get the same costing brakes
Not sure if its because of how close I am to the power/weight ratio, but options that cause all of the track stats to go up (green) can cause me to lose multiple seconds on laptime, and “bad” (red) options are randomly increasing laptimes on all three tracks… also, lowering the quality on certain parts of the car is giving me better lap times. So many finicky options trying to get this car made.
Just noticed, are people using the small body car from 1945? It doesn’t have a frame for me, but other peoples car definitely look like the small body car. I thought I saw someone mention something about it in an earlier post, but I didn’t understand how to make the car available.
This may be way my car seems so much slower than the first pre-season test cars if they really are using the other body style.
Also, to clarify, we are allowed to set body quality to -15 correct?
You need to either delete the mid-engined version of that car or rename that mid-engined version, there is a conflict in the names. It should be under Z:\Steam\steamapps\common\Automation\assets\meshes\cars\Mid\small\40sSedan where Z: is your drive. I find it easier to just delete the mid-engined version of it since it is pretty useless with its poor handling in '45. That is my opinion though. You can also edit the name, just edit the “body.lua” and change the name from 40Sedan to 40sSedan.
Nice tip Blasters. Thanks.
Ok, shows up and everything is fine until I get to brakes. It lets me put on front brakes, but the sliders for the front brakes are locked and everything after the front brake section is locked. I have tried morphing the body and changing the tire sizes, but to no avail :\
[quote=“trackpaduser”]Please read this: hooniverse.com/2010/01/14/dont-b … -it-means/
It makes no difference what so ever if you are geared properly.[/quote]
Thankyou for this link, it explains how things work nicely and matches my personal understanding of power v torque with Killrobs assertions 
The OP say 0.15 hp/Kg, but what is the tolerance? right now i’m sitting in 0.15007211, is that fine?
I would say must be under 15. My best ratio so far was exactly .15, but my car is currently at .149482 and costs $6998.96.
Tried uninstalling and reinstalling the game. The mid engined 40’s car got fixed automatically (must have been in the update but didn’t get pushed to currently installed games) and shows up correctly, but I am still locked out of brakes for the small 40’s car. Guess I’ll be going up against the small cars in my giant boat car 
Tolerance? What’s the point of a tolerance? Everyone would built cars to the limit+tolerance. And then there would be people which would be 0.00000002 above limit+tolerance. Would that still be ok?
I know there might be some issues with file saving. So I have a different system for this challenge because here I can fix things up to a point. In case you are not too far above the limit, I will add weight to your car until everything is fine. You should still try to avoid being over the limit because it might unbalance your car and make it a good bit worse than before. If you are totally above the limit I will DQ you because I will not send out PMs to everyone who messes up.
However, I can do some pre-checks for the power-to weight ratio and post the results here to show you if things are ok.
Little problem here, my car got locked up on the brake tab, i can’t move from there, i can only choose front brake type, the rest is locked… 
Known bug, will hopefully be fixed soon.
[quote=“Der Bayer”]
Tolerance? What’s the point of a tolerance? Everyone would built cars to the limit+tolerance. And then there would be people which would be 0.00000002 above limit+tolerance. Would that still be ok?
I know there might be some issues with file saving. So I have a different system for this challenge because here I can fix things up to a point. In case you are not too far above the limit, I will add weight to your car until everything is fine. You should still try to avoid being over the limit because it might unbalance your car and make it a good bit worse than before. If you are totally above the limit I will DQ you because I will not send out PMs to everyone who messes up.
However, I can do some pre-checks for the power-to weight ratio and post the results here to show you if things are ok.[/quote]
Weel, better safe than sorry, current and most probably final design sent, power to weight ratio at 0.14925, so everything should be fine.
I’m entering a sub 100hp featherweight with a styling so minimal it looks like it’s still in war 
My car depends on loading.
Every time I load my car up it seems to either lose a couple kg or gain a couple of kg. Sometimes its 0.1494… and other times its 0.1501.
The calculations seem to have a margin of error causing a random variation in hp/kg ratio of up to .001 every time you load it. Seriously a change of .5kg will throw you’re hp/kg rating off and that .5kg can change every time you load the car.
Edit*
I just loaded it 3 times and the weight changed from 776.8 to 779.6 and the price went up from xx88 to xx97.
I can assure you that such minor deviations won’t get you disqualified and that the differences won’t suddenly turn your car into a backmarker.
The rules say that an engine reliability of 30 is “recommended” but will being less then that lead to a DQ?
I ask because I made some changes to my car and I gained another second on my lap time from before but it required a sacrifice of 3 points on engine reliability in the engine tab. But overall my cars reliability in the trim tab showing the cars stats barely took hit and still exceeds 60.
The car you have from me is good on that front but depending on that recommended thing and my cars performance on Monday I might send you this slightly modified one.
With an engine reliability of 30 you are highly likely (but never safe!) to finish the 30 minute races without an engine failure. It’s up to you how much you want to risk. Higher reliability is always better of course. Reliability is not somthing which will get you disqualified.
The car reliability is good for crashes: The higher your reliability is, the less damage (on average) your car will take in crashes.