CSR154 - Midsize Mania [DONE]

1980 Quaglia 320GTi


Straight out from well-known Italian sports car country, this Quaglia 320GTi has landed on the land of freedom.

Quaglia offers you one of the best well-engineered sporty sedan that they could offer. This trim offers impressive 3.2L fuel-injected V6, capable producing up to 185hp, powering the rear wheel and dual-meshed 5-speed manual.

Climbing inside, 320GTi offers you refined, exquisite premium Italian leather and stitching with state of the art 8-track player.

Come to the nearest Quaglia dealership for the 320GTi that only cost $17,800!

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Be sure to submit your .car file in a DM to the host or else he may not see it or count it as a submission. Also, submitting through a DM will prevent other contestants from downloading your car and checking its stats before the deadline.

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He did

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yeah, I did. and honestly if someone beats me because of the stat thing, it is what it is. I’m just having fun with this. I appreciate the heads up though, I didn’t think about that aspect of it.

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I’ve been authorized by Carol Shelby himself on behalf of Chrysler Corporation that their new Turbo II 2.2L I4 is now available as a crate engine, Consulier has already announced they’ll be putting it into their new GTP, will anyone else follow their lead?!

As was already hinted at

, if someone would want to use this engine for this challenge, probably after forged internals are added with compression lowered to run on correct fuel, changes I plan to show tomorrow in another edit of this post, they could let me know and I may send, so that is in fact quite on topic.


Some stats after the modifications

[With compression lowed to 7.5:1 and boast upped by 0.05 Bar to make up for most losses, it outputs 0.4 lb-ft more but 0.9 hp less at 0.8% less efficiency, 11 M.C. and 0.9 P.U. more but 0.4 E.T. less, but still only 46.3 reliability.

Turns out above 0.65 Bar of boast nukes your reliability, so a lowered boast but upped compression version will be planned on being share here along side the described version.]


Low boast version update log

No longer as concerned getting boast to kick in as early, I removed the point of quality and tech pool from the Turbo to make it the default tech pool, though I felt I could still do better so made a third version with the same level of quality as the tech pool and switched out PFI for TBI to make a cheaper, more reliable version.

For more info on the recreation these are based on


Ray_V0lut10n's engines thread - #31 by Ray_V0lut10n

huh???

Well, I’ll be damned. I was reading about that pretentious asshat Mosler and his ugly prototype Consulier cars not two weeks ago.

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What’s the judge’s view on proper brake tuning? Tune for stats (if so, which ones) or realism?

Both. Nobody likes too much fade, nobody cares about a little fade, and nobody wants their entire dang rear axle to lock up first.

In-game market desirability and major stats (drivability, comfort, sportiness) seem to commonly favor front brakes roughly 5% overpowered, and rears roughly 10% overpowered. Reality favors front brakes maybe 1% overpowered, and the rears a bit underpowered. A previous competition I entered got me points off for “weak brakes” because the front brakes were just barely above tire grip - how I’d’ve done it IRL, not how the game does it.

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Well, generally, doing things that were either improbable or dangerous irl isn’t going to help you in a competition. The line between optimization and cheese is pretty obvious: when you’re at the point where your primary emotion is “holy shit, how is this not hurting me?” - you’ve crossed that line.

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As I see it: the brakes will lose effectiveness over time, and having full braking capability even with worn brakes is better than not having it when you need it.

It would be quite bad if a brake was only good if it’s recently serviced/replaced.

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Isn’t that what the Fade metric is meant to address? Most brakes actually work better when worn in and somewhat warmed up.

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Warmed up, yeah. Overheated, no.

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I’m pretty sure the fade metric is the loss of efficiency by the brakes heating up enough for the brake fluid to start boiling (and thus cause a loss of brake pressure through gas compressibility) / stuff forming on the brake surface causing a loss of friction between friction material and brake

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Yes, all of that amounting to the brakes losing effectiveness over time. Age and pad material remaining have no direct effect on how well they work - if there’s no glazing or contamination, and at least some pad life left, they’ll do no worse than brand new hardware.

Either way, unless you have any questions besides “how far can I cheese the stats on this before you throw me out the competition”, there’s nothing more I have to say.

My last reply was to @shibusu . Your previous reply is clear enough to me.

Next questions:

What’s the verdict on environmental resistance?

Are period- and market-correct bumpers required?

Does Tony prefer to get free arm exercise while driving, or for hydraulics to let him relax?

The fade metric is strictly short term heating of the brake systems. Once the brakes cool down they’ll be fine again unless you’ve damaged them in some way. Fade (both IRL and in Automation) doesn’t have anything to do with how old the brakes are, only how good they are at dissipating heat.

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