Kei Cars. From Production to Race day

I should have been more comprehensive:

[quote]x Minimum Driveability 40
x Minimum Reliability 70
x Minimum Safety 50[/quote]

Yeah no, don’t think you’re quite passing all the regs there :stuck_out_tongue:

Note: it’s REALLY HARD to get a 40 driveable car with 63hp. Also, it’s hard to get 70 reliability for under 5k. And it’s impossible to get minimum safety if you’re not using high quality standard safety, advanced safety, or carbon fiber, and even more so in a “kei car” with a budget of 5k. So that last one really needs to be slashed, to, say, 25 or so.

Ok… I paid no attention to anything I guess. We need to wait if the guy who issued that impossible challenge really cares. If not…then someone will need to call 1-800-PYRLIX to close this thing :wink:

He watches :smiley: The name has been uttered!

just completed with the spec, body work still sux.






Your car is a bit too fast, needs to be under 145kph.

That’s actually pretty well done. How tight was it getting things on spec?

The main problem I see now is that body doesn’t qualify as a kei car in real life. The wheelbase is way too long. What if you used an actual k car body?

Ahh, missed that. Thought it was minimum speed.

[quote=“strop”]That’s actually pretty well done. How tight was it getting things on spec?
The main problem I see now is that body doesn’t qualify as a kei car in real life. The wheelbase is way too long. What if you used an actual k car body?[/quote]

this car wheelbase is 2.38m, which is a K-car size body. In real life, I owned a K-car (Daihatsu Cuore], wheelbase is 2.35m. Actually it’s a bit challenge to get the spec right, so I’ve trial and error for 3 hours to get them right.

anyway, renewed version with top speed fix.






engine and chasis




Impressive. Does seem like very few combinations actually work so good job finding it. Not sure if many people want to spend 3 hours getting a car together and OP hasn’t actually responded to anything!

Thanks. I am used to build small cars with minimum cost, service cost and high mileage. So kinda know some tricks. Drivability can’t use the default setting, need to retune the suspension, tyres and brake to boost from 34.x to 40.0 (by sacrificing sportiness). Same goes to mileage, gotta change camshaft setting, get the best match of compression ratio & ignition timing at 15.0 AFR and shaving weight off as much as possible. Yup, its a long process

I’ve no problem with drivability and economy. The main issue I have is managing the safety. How did you manage that? The most cost-effective way of achieving this is a modern body with a car mass of about 900kg, so I end up using advanced -10 quality or something like that, as it is the most cost effective, but despite that, I have to make serious sacrifices to the engine to get the costs down to 5k. It’s just… not fun and limits your choices to a very narrow range.

I’m using old chasis (cant find in 20 years), chasis setup as below:
monocoque, steel, front tranverse, mcpherson, torsion beam, steel, quality 0.

engine design:
Inline4 aluminium block, 54mm x 72mm, DOHC aluminium 4 valve per cyl, non VVL.
cast crank, cast conrod, cast piston
NA with multipoint EFI, exhaust long tubular 0.75", high-flow 3-way + 2 baffled
everything 0 quality.

Safety I’m using advanced quality -7. Well, I am lucky to find a chasis that can do 50.x score on the 2nd selection (1st choice cant get it). Gotta trial and error various chasis, as the safety base index can vary quite a lot. The one I am using is light and having good safety index baseline.