If you’re unsure about how a certain part works, always watch the tutorial in-game. It costs nothing and barely takes any time. It’s okay to not know something - I remember spending like an hour going through all of them at one point 
Also something that wasn’t mentioned - use VVT. It’s quite light and cheap (waaay lighter and cheaper than VVL), but it still improves the engine. I think it can add even 5-10% of power (if you tune the engine to keep the same efficiency).
Things already mentioned:
Ball bearings are a must have, journal ones are plainly worse. About 4 valve + VVL vs 5 valve or water-air vs air-air intercooler - I’d say there’s no clear winner. If you want a balanced engine, both powerful and efficient, then go for 4 valve, VVL and water-air. If you want pure performance then use 5 valve and… well, it depends - air-air is much lighter, but also less effective, so you have to decide which one will be better in a given case.
And seeing your redline and internals I think that after switching to lightweight pistons you can increase the stroke quite a lot - and lower the bore if you want to keep the displacement, and that will save a lot of weight (as Deskyx mentioned) and increase efficiency.
And merry Christmas everyone 
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About that advice on building engines: it’s definitely sound, and @SideswipeBL I hope you keep it in mind when you design your next engine.
And merry Christmas to everyone, and a happy New Year.
Jesus Christ you guys look at this
There, it’s actually kind of reliable.
I had to put a lot of quality into the cams to stop the valve float so now it’s really expensive.
Gosh darn it, whatever.
Also I got the top speed to 196 MPH and the 0-62 to 2.8 seconds. Much more Nitrex-y.
I’m too lazy to change the original Overflow post or post the new stats. Zzz.
Thanks guys!
It also does not reach it’s full power since you cut the growth by your redline. It also does not produce any power below 4k RPM, which is exactly where you will be all the way to the track. That cooling requirement is HUGE for that power, also I do not understand your desire to run it at 93 RON.
Alright I got a new motherboard so it may take a while for me to start making cars again, maybe one or two days.
Sorry.
Not like anybody cares, but still.
well, your turbos are spooling up somewhere around the 85% redline mark as opposed to the 95%, so we look forward to seeing where you go to next 
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I also have a tendancy to cut the power with the RPM limit for the sake of reliability and most peak power, sure it hardly matters if you make 1000HP but hardly anything below your peak power if you are running with a long geared 3 speed auto, but I tend to think of my cars in a realistic manner as in “is the horsepower in this going to be used for speed or dick waving purposes” normally my answer is the later so it makes sense to do it that way.
Sorry to change subjects, I’ve just been meaning to find an answer to this and it’ll save me starting a whole new thread, what dictates the amount of cooling an engine will require?
The short answer is a lot of things. More power generally means more energy required which means more bang in combustion which means higher temps and more airflow required for a start. Running richer per power I think actually lowers relative requirements. But the big one is boost. How much hot air you’re trying to ram through the turbo is the biggest influence if you’re running significant amounts of boost… so either don’t run too much air through it if you care about economy, or be sure you’re making absolutely the most out of your performance.
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Superb, thanks for the explanation!
Hey man, have you ever heard of something called Performance Index? Power isn’t everything.
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I was going to say “mostly the size and the pressure in your turbo” but you did a whole huge explanation.
Yes I am aware, but as stated further in my post I use power mostly for prestige/top speed purposes and poor low end power and long gear ratios you can make a fwd car with 1000hp in 1980 and still have good drivability.
3 is not a good drivability. In any case, go into the tabs and see how much penalty a 1000hp highly turbocharged engine carries to see the error of your ways.
I’m not sure if you meant to type 3 or if you actually meant 30 but I’ll go into the tabs and check… I didn’t even think of turbolag.
Edit: yeah, the engine does give -20% to drivability which doesnt seem THAT bad for the trade off of being a premium luxury/GT/hypercar/supercar combo rather than just premium luxury and one of the reasons I made that car was to increase my prestige I didn’t expect it to be the absolutely most competitive car.
Alright guys my computer is back up and running…
…but all my cars disappeared.
The folder for Automation is still in the correct place but Automation still can’t find it.
What the heck? How do I make Automation find them again?
When you run automation, in the first screen, where you can change the graphics settings, you make sure the save folder is the correct.
If it is ok, and still can’t read it, well, change the save path to other location and place there the automation folder.
NEVERMIND I PUT THE MY GAMES BACKUP INTO THE WRONG PLACE LOL IT WORKS
Sorry about the double post but I didn’t want to edit the post since it had its own information in it
The year is 2007 and the new NS07 is on the road.
It sucks as well, with a laughable 581 performance index, 51 engine reliability with an overkill 1000 horsepower.
Pffft. 0-60 in 2.8 seconds. That’s a huge waste of 1000 horses. Oops, wheelspin.
And the turbos are slow too, spooling at a little over 4000 RPM with a redline of 6700.
It’s also not a looker. Very ugly.
Happy new year, God damn it.
Front:
(vomit)
Rear:
(vomit)
Side:
wow vents
Engine:
that is not how pipes work automation
Stats:
oh whoops look it’s the workflow bar hello
Yeah, I definitely cut off the power at 6700rpm, but come on man, do you want to be driving a Zenvo ST1 or what
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