Note: I posted my first off-topic topic for my potential future classic car planning ideas.
Had anybody tried or heard about the first generation Ford Mustang (specifically early models: 1964 also known as 1964 1/2, 1965, 1966, 1967 and 1968 models too) swapped with a 6.4 liter or 6.6 liter Pontiac V8 engine (found in a GTO, but also the Pontiac full-size models)?
The engine has 103.2 mm (6.4 liter) or 104.7 mm (6.6 liter) bore and 95.2 mm stroke (both), it has 335 gross hp (250 gross kW) for 4-barrel or 360 gross hp (270 gross kW) for Tri-Power, but it is not a common engine to swap and it is quite difficult to find (I never find out about the availability plus worldwide shipping before, and I’m Thai person living locally, that’s why the Toyota UZ engines are much easier to find).
Are you talking modern gto engine or the original. If so the gto was known locally as the monaro in aus where it was made
Now the engine used was a l76 ls style motor which u can buy from australia dirt cheap and do fit in the mk1 mustangs. My question is why not a coyote
@findRED19 I agree with you, but I never saw early Ford Mustang with 6.4 or 6.6 liter Pontiac engines before (it usually swapped with Cobra Jet, Windsor or Modular engines). Since I don’t have driver’s license, I can’t drive any cars.
@Darkshine5 1. I talked about an original A-Body GTO with Pontiac’s own engine, not modern GTO that known as Holden Monaro in Australia.
2. The answer why not Coyote engine is: to see various non-Ford engines fitted on the early Mustang, maybe even 5.4 liter Oldsmobile Jetfire Rocket (315 gross hp or 235 gross kW) or 7 liter Starfire Rocket engine (370 gross hp or 276 gross kW), but those engines are also difficult to find as well.
I have to ask why you would do that. What advantage would you have over a comparable Ford engine?
I’m baised against this because I feel the engine manufacturer should match the car manufacturer; otherwise it’s a dishonor to both brands.
I have some ideas though. A Ford V10 (assuming it’ll fit), or a Ford 7.3L diesel. Those fit the “different” bill
The cross-manufacturer engine swap is common in Thailand, particularly Toyota JZ or UZ engines, as the engines are easy to find. It has no advantages comparable over Ford engines, except higher horsepower in those Pontiac and Oldsmobile engines for 1965 and 1966 (Note: The 7 liter Ford Police Interceptor engine produces 360 gross hp (270 gross kW) in 1965 and 1966.
I agree with your opinion, however, the durable TorqueFlite 727 3-speed automatic transmission is hard to find in Thailand as well, even the Turbo-Hydramatic 400 automatic transmission used in those GM cars are also hard to find in Thailand as well. But If I can order it and ship worldwide, then I’ll have a home-made Ford-Pontiac crossover (done by the mechanics, not by myself), not an AMC you said, but I worried about the spare parts, if I (or my relatives or relatives’ friends) really had that car, and the fuel cost as well (fuel prices in Thailand are more expensive than the US and Australia, but cheaper than in Japan or most European countries).
My highest recommendation if you are prepared to ship from around the world i would look at getting your hands on a wrecked fg falcon gt supercharged. 335 rwkw (over 400 at the engine). U could use all the falcon interior and electronics and the supercharged coyote is smaller than an older 4.6.
Well, I believe the AMC reference was pointing to the fact that many of the AMC models were AMC bodies fitted with parts from various manufacturers, especially engines and transmissions.
1965-1966 Studebakers and late Checkers are also used the Chevrolet engines and transmissions as well.
Anyway, thank you for the reference because I never heard about the cross-rival, non-divisional parts usage in the older Big Three cars.
Correct, My dad used to call them Abortion Motor Cars. All Motors Combined is a good one too. I own a 1986 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. The turn signal/wiper/cruise control switch is identical to the one on my '86 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, same with the headlight switch and door chime. The starter and carburetor are both Ford products. The distributor is also a Ford but is apparently supposed to use a Chrysler one instead (Some elements aren’t factory original) The transmission is a Torqueflite-727, a Chrysler design. I was being mostly facetious about the comment above but hopefully in an ideal scenario you’ll have the best of all combined. (Or in AMC’s case it was likely, grab whatever was on the shelf and slap it on the car)
Pontiac had a unique engine to GM back then. Parts are already difficult to find for them in the US, I am sure parts would be even worse out in your neck of the woods.
If you must swap to a GM engine, choose the 350, parts are abundant. Though I would personally stick to a ford block because the distributor is in the front.
Because I chosen those Pontiac engines as an experimental swap for my unlikely plan of the early 1st generation Ford Mustang, to create the Ford Mustang GTO, as the car was more difficult to find, due to the popularity with the collectors and restorers.
Several days had passed, so can anybody suggest or recommend the classic cars from 1945-1991 (calendar year) or 1946-1992 model years? Then, I’ll review the car(s) you recommended or suggested.
Note: I don’t have driver’s license, but my aunt encouraged me to able to drive the car before I take an exam, and 1975/1976 to 1991/1992 cars are sometimes referred as modern classics. You can also post the image(s) or website(s) you found to give me some ideas.
I mean that “can you suggest or recommend those cars?” from 1945-1991 (calendar year) or known as 1946-1992 model years, which I referred as classic cars (usually 25 years old or older, as of 2016) from above. And I also looking those classic cars to import to my country (the possibilities depends on the import regulations and taxes). You can post the image(s) or website(s) you found or choose.
No offense… but you do not need to be looking at classic cars before learning how to drive. Get something cheap and simple, drive it for a few years, and then move on to whatever your dream car is.
Agreed, find a beater. Not only will the effort to keep it running provide valuable experience in regards to automotive care, but also if something disastrous should happen, at least you won’t lose a care that you’re too attached to. (My problem is I get attached regardless of what car I own)
These are pretty much your current only options. And I guess you do not realise that used cars import haven’t been legal since 1975.
Before owning any of these I suggest you learn a few simple facts about them. One I’ve already told you above. Another is that you will need to learn and take driving exam in 1990’s or 2000’s mid-size truck such as the Hilux or Mitsubishi L200. If you cannot do that, forget it, you’ll never be able to drive these things.
And then you’ll need to learn how to operate these cars. Carburettored engine definitely doesn’t go like a fuel injected one. You’ll have to learn these difference between them. And that’s barely the tip of the iceberg.
Even the Toyota engine cars will have trouble operating reliably. There are many reasons why you don’t see these sort of car everyday. They were literally made to last only 130,000-140,000km before dying off. It’s what planned obsolescence does to a car. If the engine doesn’t let go, something else will. You can keep the car longer than that, but eventually you’ll realise that you spend a lot more than twice what the car cost in the first place. You are in Thailand ffs. Not freaking Michigan.
I do not want to sound like an arse. But I have to tell you now. What you’re thinking is a harebrained idea. Something that is certainly possible, but monumentally stupid. Especially how ill-informed you currently are.
