no Fiberglass?
aw shite…
Didn’t rcracer just say that the panels can be any material?
I just went full retard…
so placcy a-ok?
Fiber glass does not require a medium factory and so it is allowed. I believe monocoque(in certain materials) chassis is the only thing that requires a medium factory.
so im guessing Glued mono and Fiberglass is kosher, then?
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Yes that is fine.
1 Like
New from DSDR the Pacific racecar.
Simple to drive and simple to repair was the brief handed down to DSDR from it’s parent company DSD. With this in mind it was decided that a tradition front engine rear wheel drive vehicle would be designed with double wishbone and multi-link suspension and be a completely Alloy body and Chassis. The car has high flow fuel fillers on both sides feeding into a common 80L fuel cell which means that while pitting the fuel filler is always facing away from the pit lane. With a coke bottle shaped body with very effective aerodynamics the car stands out on the track with its unique 70’s style.
The engine was designed with ease of maintenance in mind, so we chose a simple OHC cylinder head that allows access to the entire valve train from under the tappet cover, the valve train is also simplified with a cam on shim system instead of using rocker arms which require more time to repair. We chose to use an Alsi block and head with fuel injector bosses fitted to feed directly into the combustion chamber whilst still allowing quick and easy access to the injectors and hardware.
The engine displaces 2793cc and produces a lazy 271Hp with the basic tune and 91oct pump fuel (the ecu is re-programmable however we recommend only using a DSDR credited workshop).
A 6sp manual gearbox and geared LSD put those screaming horses to the ground thru 215mm semi slick tyres on 16" alloy wheels. As always the DSD wind-tunnel and aero research center outside Jandowee Qld Australia was used extensively to tune and create the body and aero package.
Simple to Drive Simple to Repair and under 1 tonne of Fun what more could you need from a track car.
Retail $19950
8 Likes
Dem stats. Definitely have to rethink my approach.
Since these cars won’t be racing with each other but with themselves, does track time matter at all or is it just based on drivability and sportiness?
We believe that everyone should be able to afford to race at Storm Automotive. Unfortunately, not everyone can afford a Cascabel, Mamba, or Taipan, and thereby have to look elsewhere for cheap power. Well, up until now.
Despite our long standing tradition of making everything all-wheel-drive, we’ve realized mechanical simplicity makes racing better. Give someone a rear-wheel-drive car, and they’ll learn to drive it. We followed a purist’s route: If it’s an electronic babysitter making the car easier to drive, it wasn’t installed. Race cars don’t have power steering, so get rid of that, too. So, the end result is this, the Storm Legend RS.
We like the fact that Legends racers typically had an old-school look to them, but we all understand that the 30’s and 40’s are too old for most up-and-coming young racing drivers to really want to drive. So, we went with a retro-modern muscle car as our theme, something you might expect to see flying around the streets normally.
But, how do you make this cheap and competitive? Most people would throw power at the problem of competition, but we decided the most competitive way to win races is to stay out of the pits waiting for gas and tires. We built the engine to be efficient, to sip fuel, and with enough power to be quick, but not so much that it’s unruly. Also kept in mind was maintenance. These are racing cars, and eventually you’ll find yourself needing a new engine. It’s inevitable and it’s going to happen. Why should it cost an arm and a leg when you decide to replace it?
Sure, some people would call it a sin that we put an inline four in a muscle car. It’s still RWD, and we’re throwing down 224 horsepower. It also has a 9200 RPM redline. Think about that for a second. This is meant to be a cheap racing vehicle, but we’ve focused on efficiency and power with a common size and displacement. This engine shares parts with our AluStar V, in the form of available connecting rods, pistons, crankshafts, cams, Valve Control Technology, DFI, etc. The only difference between the AluStar V and this is that this engine is all cast iron to reduce costs. This means there’s a ton of common parts to rebuild, upgrade, and modify your engine within the race limitations. We’ve chosen to tune this engine around Premium Unleaded, mostly to improve power and fuel efficiency.
Some will undoubtedly criticize our use of an AHS Steel ladder chassis and corrosion resistant steel panels. While a light aluminum chassis or a steel spaceframe make a lot of sense, we understand that these cars are usually aimed for younger drivers with little or no racing experience. Accidents will happen, and steel has some advantages. The cars weigh a little more, reducing air-time in the event of a serious collision, steel deforms less than aluminum, and even more important than the safety aspect is the ease of repair. Anyone with a table and a hammer can beat a dent out of a steel panel without fear. No need to worry about someone deciding to try some NASCAR inspired bump drafting with Storm Legends on the track.
We focused on low running costs and high fuel efficiency for the best racing experience. Your race car shouldn’t bankrupt your team, even if you’re having to fill the tank with premium. Mind, the costs can go up if you change from the medium compound tires to a more expensive compound, but we were trying to keep tire costs below $350 a set. After all, lower running costs are better, and a hard-wearing tire makes more sense than sticky slick tires that burn out after a few laps.
We think you won’t be too disappointed with the price, either. Racing should be fun, not frustrating.
5 Likes
Here’s a little something I whipped up earlier…
2016 Bogliq Fox 200R
Built for racing, sold at your local Bogliq dealership, buy one today!!!
3 Likes
That car definitely looks on-point… But are active wings and cooling flaps permitted? I didn’t use either on cost grounds.
Because he wanted to do something different? Why would he not?
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Maybe because I decided I wanted to build a car that didn’t look the same as everyone else’s car.
Maybe because I felt that building a small muscle-car look-a-like would be something fun to do.
Maybe it’s because I didn’t want a car that looked like a squished orange turd, and instead wanted something cool.
Possibly because it’s what I wanted to do, and because you’re not my boss, so you can go fuck right off to hell for all I care.
As for the engine reliability, I didn’t use quality sliders, because I figured putting in racing seats made more sense than to install a 1980’s vintage park bench in a racing car. Race cars, not shitboxes. Also consider that I’m producing marginally more horsepower than your engine, spinning the same speed, and I have an additional 400cc of displacement. Now also take into consideration that we had two completely different design ideas.
Why isn’t your car more efficient? Despite a 405 kilogram weight advantage, better aerodynamics from the newer body, fewer downforce parts, and a much smaller car, your car only gets 38.9 MPG while mine gets 32.4. Why isn’t your car safer? I’ve got a ladder chassis and old-school steel panels, without quality points in my Advanced Safety.
Here’s an idea: Rather than trying to create controversy by being a shit-bag and asking why I didn’t do something, read the fucking thread first:
Also, something to think about, a little food for thought: On Airfield, I’m only a few seconds down from you, and I’m on medium compound tires.
Last thing to think about, and I think everyone here can speak in full agreement with this one: Think before you type. If it doesn’t contribute to the thread in any meaningful way, don’t bother wasting everyone’s time. At this point, most of us would prefer to see you be silent for once. You’re like the kid who butts into other people’s conversations and tries to make everything about you. Maybe you don’t get it, but that annoys everyone beyond belief when you do that. Rather than thinking you’re better than everyone and that they should all take your advice, maybe you ought to realize that you’re just the same as everyone else, but by being a condescending arrogant ass, everyone looks at you like the shit ground into the heel of their brand new shoes.
Since day one of you being here on this forum, you’ve been told by various members of the community to shape up. You haven’t bothered to try to fit in, you’ve tried to make the whole forum revolve around you. News flash for you: You’re not the center of the universe, and just because you were never told “No” as a child doesn’t mean you get to run rampant around other people. Contrary to what you may believe, this forum isn’t about you and your cars, it’s for everyone and their cars, their topics, and their ideas.
And before you think I’m being mean, think about it for a moment: How often have I gone into your car thread and compared your cars to their real world companies? How often have I gone and nit-picked your car design because I think it’d be better this way? How often have I decided to derail one of your threads by talking all about me? Wait, that’s right, I haven’t. I’ve tried being nice, but you don’t seem to get the hint when I’m being nice. Grow up, get with the program, or get out.
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Track time will have very little impact.
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More and more drafts… now it’s getting difficult to choose the approach. These are MR builds.
But FR builds also work very well. I’m going to bite the bullet and ask for a bit of a guideline as to what a “good” drive:sport ratio is. Is it drive equal to sport? A bit less? A bit more? I don’t know how to assess how easy the car drives compared to how sporty it should be. Because I feel like I’m getting decent stats (drive 50-65 and sport 60-70), but not sure in what general direction I should be pitching.
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I didn’t want to give away the ideal ratio since it would make it too easy to reach but if you believe some info about it is necessary i will say that drivability and sportiness should be close to each other.
Also with stating this I will allow anyone who has already submitted a car to make a revision with this hint in mind.
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It isn’t necessarily that easy, given that there’s still a wide range of values one could hit depending on the kind of build, and of course this would be offset by running costs.
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