Simply speaking, this thread is just dedicated to what setup you’re currently using to play Automation and other games with.
Currently I use a Dell Inspiron gaming laptop (7577), with these specs:
- Core i7-7700HQ
- Geforce GTX 1050Ti
8GB DDR4 RAMUpgraded to 16 GB worth of dual-channel HyperX RAM now- 128GB SATA SSD + 1TB HDD
- Windows 10 Pro
Acer Predator 17 G9-793
Core i7-7700HQ
GeForce GTX 1070
16GB DDR4
256GB SSD + 1TB HDD
Windows 10 Home
I have 2 machines. A custom built desktop with:
and a Dell Inspiron 7567 gaming laptop with:
r/madlads
I was about to say wow that’s an old cpu but the fact you have it clocked to 4.4 is pretty impressive
I ordered mine from Cyberpowerpc… I don’t quite remember what it is but it’s something like this
ASRock something motherboard
AMD Ryzen 7 1500X Processor 3.8 GHz
AMD Radeon RX480 8GB Graphics
32 GB RAM
1TB Hard drive
Some fans
Windows 10
It runs Forza Horizon 4 on more than ultra graphics at a smooth 60 fps and BeamNG at like 45 max settings… I spent more money than I really had and had my parents chip in a little bit, I considered it a birthday present. I saved up a LOT and I’m incredibly grateful for it 
Do you mean Ryzen 5 1500X?
yeah probably 
i’d have to look
Edit: ahh wait sorry i lied, it’s a Ryzen 7 1700x
Custom Built Desktop:
3x 1080p monitors: Acer KG241P , Acer H236HL, Acer G236HL
Motherboard - Asrock h97m pro 4
Cpu - i7 4790k
Cpu Cooler - Phanteks PH-TC12DX
Memory - 2*8 gb gskill 1600 mhz ddr3
Gpu - Power Color AXRX Red Dragon RX 570
Storage - 2x Samsung 850 evo 250 gb
1x Seagate barracuda 7200.14
Case - Cooler Master MasterBox Pro 5 RGB
Psu - EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B2
Well, my rig was built back around 2011 with the goal of not needing to upgrade the CPU for a long time, and some parts are from older machines, others are newer. Some stuff is backup hardware I’m running simply because I got caught in a bind and couldn’t afford the replacement part.
Custom Built Home Workstation:
2x 1680x1050 monitors: Acer AL2223W, Acer V223W
Motherboard: EVGA SR-2
CPU: 2x Intel Xeon E5645 @ 2.4ghz stock, 3.6ghz OC (Current speed: 2.4 ghz. Nothing needs 24 threads belting out full pelt in my game library, and I like keeping CPU temps below 40C when possible)
CPU cooler: 2x Noctua NH-U12DX i4
Memory: 12GB Corsair Dominator DDR3 2000mhz running 800mhz, CL 6/6/6/24 (CPU limited to 1333 at highest memory speed. 800mhz clocked up gets unpleasantly close to red-lining the integrated memory controllers, so I settled for ‘as fast as possible’ at 3.6, and tightened the timings.)
GPU: BFG GTX 275 OC (Backup card. Underclocked to 500mhz Core to reduce heat.)
Storage:
Western Digital Raptor - SATA, 10k RPM, 150GB - Drive C
Seagate Barracuda - SATA, 7.2k RPM, 150GB - Drive D - Failed
Hitachi Deskstar - IDE, 7.2k RPM, 80GB - Drive E
Western Digital Caviar Blue - SATA, 7.2k RPM, 750GB - Drive F
Optical Drives:
Lite-On Combo CD-RW/DVD - IDE, Geared Tray Mechanism - Drive G
Lite-On Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Burner - SATA, Blu-Ray Laser Malfunction - Drive H
HP DVD Writer - SATA, DVD/CD burner - Drive I
Case: Xigmatek Elysium
PSU: Galaxy Evo 1300W (I think. I could be wrong on the wattage, but it was overkill for the system when I built it.)
OS: Windows 7 Professional, Service Pack 1
As for why I have optical drives in the system, there’s a few reasons. One, I like to watch movies, and I’ve got a lot of DVD’s. That old geared Lite-On drive gets a workout when I’m in a movie-watching mood. Two, I like my retro-gaming, and I’ve got a few games that came on CD/DVD, where they require the disk in the drive. By having 3 optical drives, I can leave two game-disks in the system for instant play, while still having an empty drive for a movie.
And yes, I know, the Hitachi Deskstar has a terrible reputation. 0 Reallocated Sectors, none waiting for reallocation, and it’s outlived three other hard drives, including that Seagate mentioned in my list above.
I also have a couple externalized SATA capable drive bays. My plan is to, at some point, get some cheaper low-size SSD’s and put some of my common played games on them, load them into the SATA external bays, and call them game cartridges.
I’ll eventually get that GTX 275 replaced… Some day, but not today.
What happened to your main card?
Had two GTX 580’s, both of them have artifacts. One works fine as long as you never load the nVidia drivers, at which point it goes absolutely stupid, the other artifacts in BIOS.
Custom build pc.
Ryzen 5 1500x @ 3.5 Ghz
Motherboard: Gigabyte AB 350 Gaming 3
Zotac 1060GTX 6GB
2x Corsair LED 8GB ram @ 2,666 Mhz
240GB Kingston SSD (main drive)
ADATA 120 GB SSD
Seagate 1 TB @ 7,200rpm
EVGA power suply 450w
Some corsair fans and a corsair case
Windows 10 home
Custom build PC:
-Zalman Z11 Plus
-Corsair RM750
-Asus ROG Maximus VII Ranger
-Intel Core i5 4690k
-Deepcool Gammaxx 300, with Arctic MX-4 thermal compound
-Gainward Phoenix GeForce GTX 1060 6GB
-1x 8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR3 1866MHz
-Toshiba DT01ACA200 7200RPM 2TB
-BenQ GW2470H
-Logitech Deluxe 250 PS2 keyboard
-Logitech G9X Laser
Custom build from late 2014
Asrock Extreme4 Z97 motherboard
Intel Core i5 4690k processor (4 core, 3.5 ghz, and I haven’t done any overclocking)
16 gb GSKILL Ripjaws 1600 Mhz DDR3 RAM (2 x 8 gb modules)
MSI GeForce GTX970 with 4 gb video memory
Windows 10 Pro boots off a 256 gb Crucial MX100 SSD
Additional storage for games, large files, etc on a 1 tb Western Digital Blue
Antergos Linux also lives on this system in a 128 gb Samsung MZHPV128HDGM (SATA over PCIe)
Monitors:
This is a very good monitor save for one thing: the HDMI is NOT plug and play. Right? What the fuck? If you don’t get the actual driver for this monitor, the HDMI image bleeds over the edges of the monitor so you are missing about 5% off of each edge. This is especially problematic for Linux because there is no HDMI driver for this monitor on Linux.
Whatevs. DVI-D works perfectly well so I use that. And the color quality and contrast is 
. This matters a lot to me because photo work.
I hate this monitor for all the reasons that the Samsung is good. The pictures are not as crisp. The color quality is not even close to as good. And the color temperature seems to be persistently stuck at about 5000k despite what the config menu tells me and I have not found a way to change it. So every image always looks orange tinted.
And that right there is why this is not my main monitor despite being larger. Also, for recording games, 1080p is better for performance and for final video since most players are going to 16:9.
Also, it was free so I can’t complain that much.
I also have a second machine that I use with frequency but not for gaming. Also a custom build from a few months ago to use as a server.
ASUS Prime X470 Pro motherboard
Ryzen 7 2700 processor (8 core, 16 thread, 3.8ghz)
16 gb Kingston ValueRAM – 2400 Mhz DDR4 with ECC
2 x Western Digital Black 500gb NVMe SSDs in BTRFS RAID1
6 x 2tb Western Digital Red NAS HDDs in Linux RAID6. 8tb total of redundant storage
EVGA GeForce GTX760 graphics. Because I had one lying around. Not a server needs this. It does however allow me to do this:
The monitor for this server is my living room Samsung 49 inch 2160p LED television and I get 60 hz refresh thanks to the proper graphics unit. Which means I have a dope home media system 
.
I’ve done a lot of video editing on this machine recently 
and I have to say, I am fan of Ryzen now. Once I finally get sick of the old machine or stuff starts breaking, it will probably get replaced by an AMD build.
ASUS A88XM-A motherboard
AMD A10-7850K @ 3.7 Ghz
16 GB DDR3 Ram (adding 8 soon)
Radeon R7 Graphics (actual card in the future)
1TB Seagate HDD
I don’t really know what else to say, other than it’s gonna be improved soon
and I do need a graphics card.
It works amazingly for what i’m used to.
Also upgrade your CPU too. A-series APUs are crappy these days.
Sounds like a plan to me.
some old ASUS ROG mobo
AMD Phenom II 1100T boosstteeddd and water cooled @ 4 GHz
16gb DDR4 RAM
NVIDIA 1060
3TB Seagate that I only use 2 of because default partition size in Windows NT
