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1967 Weekend Race Car Challenge [Finished, results posted]

It’s 1967. You’re an experienced mechanic and car enthusiast, and through your hard work and a lot overtime you recently managed to buy yourself a nice sports car. However, because of city traffic and speed limits you can’t use its performance as much as you would want to. You would like to get more out of the car you worked so hard to afford.

One day you find out that there is a local racing community who host events on the weekends. This would be a great opportunity to really drive your car hard from time to time, but the car will need some modifications first. The car will still need to meet the noise restrictions for road use since you want to drive this car to the track, rather than moving it on a trailer. With that and the tremendous sense of excitement and anticipation for the new project in mind, you get to work.

TLDR: Make a car that is set up to go fast on a circuit, while still looking close to a standard road car with some visual modifications.


Jaguar E-Type:

Aston Martin DB5:

Alfa Romeo Giulia:

Ferrari 275:

  • Year: 1967
  • Body type: Coupe, Sedan or Convertible
  • Engine: any type, up to 5.0L
  • Must use carburettors
  • Race intakes and race exhaust allowed (but not mandatory)
  • Super Leaded Fuel
  • At least 1 muffler
  • Drive type: RWD
  • Semi-Slick tires, up to 255m wide
  • max. rim size 15"
  • Interior: at least 2 basic seats, standard 60s safety
  • Price: up to 40.000$
  • Power/weight: up to 0.25hp/kg (250hp/1000kg) if front-engined, up to 0.225hp/kg (225hp/1000kg) if mid-engined or rear-engined
  • Aero: only 1 Spoiler fixture allowed, no lips or wings. Only era-correct spoilers allowed
  • Car should have racing numbers, racing lights and/or racing stripes

Judging criteria:

  • Exterior Styling
  • Performance in BeamNG (Automation Short Race Circuit, Hirochi Raceway Short Circuit, West Coast Short Race Circuit)

Overall score = Styling Score + Race 1 score + Race 2 score + Race 3 score
Tiebraker if 2 or more cars are tied for 1st after the last race: West Coast Drag Strip (fastest quarter mile time wins the tiebraker)

Deadline: August 22nd, 2021 at 5pm CEST
Race 1: August 22nd, 2021 at 6pm CEST
Race 2: August 28th, 2021 at 6pm CEST
Race 3: August 29th, 2021 at 6pm CEST

Only 1 submission per player is allowed! Your first submission counts

Again, the races will be streamed on my youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEazrZkjQcCxLaMmj79c62Q
Submit your car through my discord: Tom Henks Chillout
To submit, drag and drop your car file into the “community-challenge-files” subchannel


Can we use magnesium rims? Especially since they’re available by 1967.

Can the tires be of the radial type, given that such tires are also available by 1967?

I expect that any type of carburetor can be used, but most people will just choose DCOE for maximum output.

Awww this is gonna be good!

Looks awesome! Do want to clarify 2 things, though:

Is there a specific noise limit, or is anything fine so long as we have a muffler? (I like 'em loud, but wanna make sure I know my limits.)

Is this meant to restrict options to only drag-reducing efficiency spoilers, or are we allowed to have them create downforce?

Yes to all 3 questions. Magnesium rims, radial tyres and DCOEs are all allowed.

@Edsel: only 1 muffler is required, it can be any type of muffler. Noise regulations did exist back then but they weren’t very strict. For the spoilers, this is mostly for more authenticity, as a lot of race cars had small spoilers on the back in those days. You can choose any wing angle you want, though. Wings aren’t allowed

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I’m assuming the mod F1 car bodies are not allowed since open wheels were not really sold

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Indeed. As stated, what I’m looking for here is basically something that started life as a regular sports car for the road, and is then brought to the track after a few modifications and some stickers and stuff


Does this refer to the value displayed in game on the Test Track page, or just the raw values divided by each other?

the value displayed on the test track is kw/kg. So you have to calculate your car’s power/weight for yourself, but that shouldn’t be too difficult, you can just use your phone

I think that value there is a bit different from just dividing the raw numbers in the right units, isn’t it? Hence my question.

No, the value on the test track of Automation is not hp/kg, it’s kw/kg. You get your hp/kg for this challenge by dividing your car’s hp by its weight in kg. The result can’t exceed 0.25 if your car is front-engined, or 0.225 if it’s mid- or rear-engined.

If that’s the case, it might be better to use the kw/kg figure then, since it leaves less opportunity for confusion. Sure, if the contestant gets the math wrong, it’s their fault; but why leave them an opportunity to get it wrong in the first place?

I say this because I tried 2 different methods of calculating hp/kg on a test car, and they came out different:

-I used google’s unit converter to directly convert kw/kg to hp/kg. I got a value of 0.219
-I used google’s unit converter to convert the car’s weight in lbs to kg (my game displays weight in lbs), then manually divided hp by kg. I got a value of 0.263

Both are methods that a contestant could likely use to measure, yet one says my car qualifies, while the other doesn’t.


In the game’s settings, you can also switch lbs into kgs. It might be easiest to just have the game show what the weight of the car is in kg and divide by .25 (or .225, depending on what drive type you have) to see what your max hp can be.

I only say this because the more conversions you perform before finding the final number, the more opportunities for variance there are. Those conversions are probably the reason for the different numbers.

@TheTom as long as you specify how you will be calculating the hp/weight ratio, everyone would do well to calculate it the same way.


And it could be worth double checking whether the displayed value actually matches dividing the raw numbers displayed elsewhere, or whether there are more calculations being done for that single value (e.g. drivetrain losses)


Behold… The Longley Project F 8-Carb

Designed by an Italian, manufactured in Britain… This is perhaps the most unreliable car in history.

Designed to a a sport family car, Longley released the Project F (F standing for family) in 1965. Producing 225 HP from a 3.8 L V12 sourced from Modenella Auto, the Italian supercar manufacturer, the Project F had mixed reviews… And garbage reliablility. Reviewers said the car was noisy and not smooth enough, but despite this it handled like a dream. Longley decided that the best thing to do was to build their own in-house engine…

customers said they needed more horsepower, as it was pretty sluggish compared with the competiton due to the Modenella V12 which was not designed for a front engined sport saloon. So Longley complied… Emphatically, named the Longley 420 (I just couldn’t help myself lol) it is a 4.2L V16 producing a whopping 299HP for less than 40K. True, the fuel economy and emissions on this thing had the power to wipe out polar bears within a week, but it made a very unique sound, partly because hardly anyone used V16’s at this point in time. It was still a ta noisy, but was an improvement on the Modenella V12, and it was smooth as silk.

Apart from the engine, presicley nothing else was changed, meaning the dreamy handling from the previous Project F. Sadly, the furthest lasting Project F did only 80,000 miles before the engine went, and service costs were way too high for most people to afford. Longley retired the 8 carb just two years later in 1969, going for a more reliable 2.7L, 187 HP MundA I6. Here are some stats for the 8 carb below


You mentioned this in the video but not the write up. How do we or you determine if the exhaust/noise is too loud? Is there a number we should go by?


The kW/kg figure in the test track is after drivetrain losses, i.e. at the wheels. At the wheels, you have 219bhp/tonne, but at the crank you have 263bhp/tonne.

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(and @Edsel) as I said before, the power/weight ratio is calculated by taking your car’s hp number and dividing it by your car’s weight in kg, it’s really not complicated. I understand that some users prefer using lbs as their weight units, but you can always take 2 minutes to change the units in the Automation game menu and switch to kg temporarily. I usually have my fuel economy units in l/100km but when I participate in someone else’s challenge and the car needs to do a certain amount of MPGs, I switch units temporarily.

@DuceTheTruth100 noise regulations did exist back then but they weren’t very strict, so as long as your car has at least 1 muffler (of any type) you’ll be fine.


The Kumos Kestrel is a perfect track day car. Changing the intake and exhaust lets the lazy 4.0L inline 6 breathe and sing properly, pushing 193kw and 380Nm of torque.

Coming in at only $26,800, you can keep up with the competition for less.


What about quality sliders, are we free to go with any numbers?