New for the 1970 model year, Cambridge Motors LTD introduces the Kobold 1600 XE. To make the 1600 XE, Cambridge started by taking the 1.6 litre OHV inline four from the larger Wyvern family car line and fitted it with high compression domed pistons, a more aggressive camshaft, larger intake valves, and twin DCOE SU carburettors. This results in an engine that produces 94 bhp at 5800rpm and 100 ft lbs of torque at 3500rpm.
Mated to a four speed manual transmission, it propels the Kobold 1600 XE from naught to sixty in 9.8 seconds and pulls hard all the way to 114mph. Large sway bars, heavy duty springs, up-rated dampers, and high performance 185/70R13 tyres mounted on Rostyle wheels allow the 1600 XE to circle the skidpad at over 1g of force.
Finished with a matte black bonnet, side stripe package, extra cooling grills, and a rear spoiler, it will certainly stand out from a crowd. It can be yours for the low price of only $14,400 AMU.
1970 ARMOR SUNBURST
Basically what happens when an American car company tries to muscle into the European sports car market.
2.8 liter I6 making north of 260 horsepower. 0-60(mph) in a reported 7.1 seconds.
EDIT:
I just wasn’t feeling this car so I have scrapped it for another.
1970 Régal Coati 1700 GTE
Description and specs
Coming back from a trip in latin america, the lead designer at Régal had the idea of making a cheap sport car for developing markets. Little did he know it would become incredibly popular in america as well.
The very striking Coati GTE is the result of this new endeavour. Offered in any color (as long as it is yellow), this 2 doors/2 seats coupe looks menacing with a very long nose, side gill-like vents and a stubby rear housing the boxer engine. With proven and patented Régal top down cooling already at work here, the extra side louvers and vent channels did not actually provide much extra cooling, but was kept because it was the team’s favorite design element. (it did not help the abysmal drag however…)
The 1.7-liter is based on the proven DOHC racing/performance Régal engine, but has a cast iron block and has been downscaled to a single overhead cam to reduce costs. Performance is not compromised however, with about 110 horsepower on this very light steel chassis weighing under 850kg resulting in acceleration to 100 km/h in around 8 seconds, and top speed reaching 188 km/h.
While fast, it is also controllable and fun to drive with independent front and rear suspensions. The 5-speed manual gearbox sending power to the rear provides dependable performance. The alloy wheels, premium leather and wood interior, AM radio, the latest security features all makes this a very coveted package for a MSRP of under 2,500 USD (in 1970) - the value here is hard to beat.
You can’t pass this up, visit your dealership today.
You don’t want the same car as everyone else, do you?
Do you have the guts to handle the 1970 RAUK PM3?
(totallynotaplasticbucketbasedonthemechanicsfromthis)
Postie Composites (an aerospace company) has graciously sponsored the 1970 Spider 6’s development as a PR play, some of the public think a more apt name would be “the black widow maker” after it’s reputation for going through test drivers. Rest assured their sacrifice was not in vein, the pubic offering includes several drives around the automation Co track a day. A serious interest in purchase is rewarded, with the ride of a lifetime beside rail thin racing driver topping out at speeds exceeding 140 miles per hour.
1970 Westpoolchestershireshire Shaguar 1600GTE
the E stands for economical lol
More Pics
Westpoolchestershireshire Motor Company Ltd.
I just made several test mules, all of them built on FR platforms - the one I would like to submit the most actually comes in two trims. One has the largest engine (2.8L I6 with 200 bhp), widest wheels and lowest-profile tires the rule set allows - predictably, it’s a rocket ship in terms of overall performance, but at $18k AMU, it stretches the definition of “affordable sports car” quite a fair bit, and is also heavier. The other version is lighter, has a 1.8L I4 making 130 bhp and is therefore slower, but rides on smaller wheels and tires, and comes in at under $16k AMU. Either one is a tempting idea for my submission, if I actually go through with it - I just need to finalize my decision before the deadline.
Can’t you make a bumper a 3D fixture and move it closer to the body?
Yes you can. Technically you can make anything a 3d object, but in doing so it no longer conforms to the curves of the car body. So you could tuck in the bumper drastically, but it would become straight.
Maybe I was a little bit unclear there. I have used bumpers as 3D fixtures many times, and since that is a hard body to place fixtures on, it was more a suggestion than anything else. It may work better than that protruding 30s bumper but hard to tell before trying.
Those values are in Automation values? Cause then that’s impressive for me. I may have lost this challenge by having a $19k car. Although mine is a V6, yours are inline.
Here’s some comparisons to what other cars have quoted, in case that helps.
So far, the cheapest cars quoted on this forum are at $12,600 and $14,400, though not many cars seem to be going quite that low. The most expensive quoted price, by comparison, was just cited at $19,000. So while both of yours are definitely not in the running for cheapest, that $2,000 difference definitely makes a big impact.
Horsepower figures are all over the place- ranging from 85 on one car to 260 on another -so your horsepower numbers don’t really mean much alone. But top speed wise, the slowest cars seem to be playing around 115mph (185kph), whereas the fastest cars aren’t getting past 140mph (225kph) (with exception of one 150mph (240kph) car). And 0-60 times seem to be ranging from 7-10 seconds.
So if your slower car is fast enough to stay competitive, then you might want to put out the slow one. But if the faster one is on the very high end of these stats, it might be worth the $2,000. It really on how big the difference is between them, but hopefully this frame of reference helps. :)
(note that we can only look at people who have posted their car’s specs here; most competitors haven’t, and for all we know, there’s a $10,000 200mph monster sitting quietly in a corner)
The slower version of my putative entry takes 8.2 seconds to go from 0 to 60 and tops out at 121 mph; the faster version needs only 6.7 to do the same thing and can reach nearly 140 mph. Both come with an automatic locking differential (which is treated as a primitive LSD for the purpose of this challenge) and use dual wishbones front and rear - which partly explains why they cost so much - but the trade-off is superior handling, especially considering their light weight and ample power (for such a small, light car). With the smaller engine it manages 0.9g on a skid pad - the bigger-engined version has 10% more grip and stops shorter to boot. Neither of them have more than two seats, however, but then again, practicality is not being graded here.
Hmmm…
Ha ha whoopsie daisy
From my experience, and I’m new to this…moving most things in 3D is ok up to a certain point…after that, if I go too far the fixture/morph remains “straight”…
Side note: I’m finding out new things with every build, so please educate me .
Ok… I wasn’t really happy with my first car, sooo…
1970 ARMOR SUNBURST GT
More sporty, more '70’s, more seats.
well i am taking a long-comatose Brand out of hibernation…
sooo…
The Keika Kakute MkII
Basically a re-hashed late 50s sports car with a 3rd part engine kindly supplied by BERMAG mbH. (@Ryan93)
have some (as in a pair) of pics:
Yes, i know it doesn’t have any kind of interior, but nobody mandated it and i cba to re-make all the window trim shit to fix some random boxes floating about in there lol.