BRC 1966 - Gentleman Brobots Club [RACE 7 P&Q]

[quote=“RobtheFiend”]

[quote=“RoyalStig”]Managed to slice some more time out of this things lap time’s whilst remaining barely legal. Here is my car, the Griffin Ddraig:
[attachment=1]2016-01-08_00005.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=0]2016-01-08_00006.jpg[/attachment][/quote]

And here i thought the rear lights on the BMW E30 was large in comparison to the body. :wink:
That front… looks like it would create enormous lift.[/quote]

Yes, yes it does create little a bit of lift. :laughing:

[quote=“Der Bayer”]Yes, you can switch to intermediate and wet tyres. If you have chosen semi slicks your tyres will wear faster than if you had chosen medium or sports compound.

The Tool has been updated. Please download again if you had problems.[/quote]

Just downloaded the new BRCTool, still getting error messages when selecting my trim unfortunately. Le tme know if you need further details.

@Puffster: Does deleting the empty “Old” and “Thumbnail” folders from Cars/Models, Cars/Trims, Engines/Families, and Engines/Variants folders work? I still had to do that even after downloading the new tool, but once I did that it worked.

Works for me, but i have to redo it every time i have run Automation. They get recreated.

Thanks, that did the trick!

@Puffster: Glad to be of service!

Oh, random suggestion (perhaps for future competitions, because it would require revising the tool): tyre strategy based on current weather conditions in addition to current track conditions.

Basically, you would have two numbers in each row: track humidity at the moment of decision and ‘steady-state’ track humidity - i.e. track humidity if the present weather conditions continued indefinitely. That way, if the skies open up mid-lap and it goes from 0 to 30 before your pit stop, you don’t pit in for intermediates, go out for one lap, and pit in again for wets - you go to wets directly, because the steady-state humidity is 100. And if it’s just spitting and the track is consistently at 25 humidity (current and steady-state equal), you might go put on the inters anyway even if it never hits 30, because they’ll be faster and the drizzle is sticking around.

So I’m running a 2:22.81 running as little camber as possible to preserve tires and a 2:20.16 with camber maxed out, both on the Automation Test Track of course.

I can’t decide on what camber to run because I have no idea just how much camber effects tire wear in the simulation.

For those willing to dare can you guys post what times you’re running so I can get a benchmark on my competitiveness pretty please? :smiley:

Here’s my car in-the-works so far by the way.


Really enjoying the variety of cars in 1966, the dilemma between front and mid/rear engined cars is very interesting. I can keep the front engined cars at far better low speed cornering ability but for anything with the engine behind the seats I’m going to be crawling round any hairpins.

Had a quick toy around with my 55 car as well, a non-sprite would’ve been extremely competitive in this race, probably a good call going for 66 this time; although it is a shame that there couldn’t be another fair chassis option.

As an aside I’m getting an error from the BRCTool when selecting a trim:

The BRCTool does looks fantastic and the competition should be great now that it’s been added.

@Gooles: I’m having exactly the same worries about tyre wear, keeping weight down obviously helps, even with aggressive camber, but that really sacrifices time on the straights. Can’t be entirely sure what camber will be best until that first practice come around!

I think that will be the dilemma this time around. I’m going to run entirely different cars for either practice. My first one’s FR and even with the camber maxed out it isn’t nearly as fast around the AT track… but it has higher cornering values and a much better drive:sport ratio. I also decided to run it a bit heavy but that will cost you considerable time on the AT track, as does having more biased weight distributions. I’ve also a dilemma in trying to figure out whether to use an aluminium or cast engine…

…geez, drive:sport ratio wasn’t even on my mind. I’ll have to see where I’m sitting - my car’s setup is pretty aggressively sporty.

@Gooles: I’m running moderate camber at the moment and in the middle of that range. Actually, all three of my test cars - the trans-am coupe I’m entering, the FF sports car, and the mid-engined exotic - were around that speed, so I’ve been feeling pretty happy. There may be a dominant body somewhere, but if there is, the people using it are playing with their cards very close to their chests. :stuck_out_tongue:

so i finally opened the tool and this pops up


and my ‘race car’ just looks like a homologated race car…


That’s not bad looking at all.

(she says, having made a similarly generic race car)

I will honestly declare I’ve found pros and cons with all four of the bodies I’ve tested. Well, three of the four. The muscle fastback coupe is a bit too large for our purposes, compared to the other three, though it can still keep up a very decent pace.

After some further umming and ahhing, I’ve decided that I will give the not-Ferrari MR another go after all. I didn’t actually tune it on my first test after all. Gooles, what mileage is Automation giving you? I’m running my car on maximum economy mode, and like Packbat, have decided to test moderate camber and have a time in the middle of that range. I’m hoping that a declared mileage of 20mpg (with my max engine efficiency all geared to the top end) will play to my favour, because this body has a pretty small footprint!

The non-Ferrari body, despite its small size should give you about 56 kg of fuel. So for the ones unable to do the math: if you have a highly efficient engine you should be able to finish any 90 min race on one and a half fuel tank.

I have a whole bunch of questions :slight_smile:

  1. This was not answered:

[quote=“AirJordan”]Der Bayer
if this

is set up at 20% (as default), does is mean that stop will occur when there is only 20% tyre life left of 80%?

And does tyre degradation leads to slower lap times or more chance to crash? Aaaand also what are damage effects (or maybe better how severe are they)?

:slight_smile:[/quote]

  1. When I revise my car, do I just resubmit like it would be my first time :wink: or is there different procedure?

  2. If I just want to change strategy (I will wait for pre season testing and do that later of course) do I again resubmit with brc tool or just PM Der Bayer?

  3. How close are we to pre season testing?

PS: I just knocked around half a second off my AT time with same efficiency and less tyre wear :geek: thanks RobtheFiend to remind me that I can increase tyre diameter! :smiley:

Oh alright, thanks for the people who answered my question :slight_smile:

[quote=“Gooles”]So I’m running a 2:22.81 running as little camber as possible to preserve tires and a 2:20.16 with camber maxed out, both on the Automation Test Track of course.

I can’t decide on what camber to run because I have no idea just how much camber effects tire wear in the simulation.

http://i.imgur.com/uBnEOdL.png[/quote]

The 2:22.81 time’s alright if we talk about preset -0.9. but you’re 35.70$ over, buddy. The technical directors won’t be impressed!

I tried a cast-cast engine variant, to get a higher weight(more power), but the times were almost identical.
The 225/70R12 tires and the 0.25 power/weight ratio limits the usefullness of that extra power. [size=85]Got nearly 10 km/h extra topspeed.[/size]

People are getting close to the 2.20 barrier and I have yet to get under 2.25.
lies down
try not to cry
cries a lot

[quote=“iRaptor”]People are getting close to the 2.20 barrier and I have yet to get under 2.25.
lies down
try not to cry
cries a lot[/quote]

Don’t worry, you’re not the only one.