Especially in the case of the LS400 where the engine was just about the only part that is probably produced in large enough amounts not to get fucked over if something goes wrong.
If it’s anything else, like I said earlier, there were less than 150k LS400s ever made, and in the end aftermarket support is vastly less compared many of the cars mentioned by others previously.
When something breaks down.
There are LS400 that managed to travel over 100k miles without a single failure.
Also, soldering is a cheap repair, so the steering column is the only thing to worry about.
Plus, the LS400 is safer, having crumple zonse and more safety features.
And I’m sure plenty of panther body cars have done the same thing, and I’d also be willing to bet most of the ones that went 100k problem free miles were driven mostly on the freeway and probably reached that mark only a few tears after they were made. but the thing is if I was to get one it WOULDN’T be new out of the factory it would be 20+ years old probably with over 100K miles already on it, some things will be worn no matter what, I have no delusions of problem free ownership and with newer cars going farther and farther away from what I’d like I’d also want to keep the car for a while in which case at some point or another things most likely will go wrong regardless of what kind of car it is.
I went on carcomplaints.com and checked the data for the LS400 and Town Car.
Turns out that the most common failures of the Lexus are broken displays ($1k to fix) and needing to refill the coolant ($100-200), while the Lincoln has manifold crack problems ($1k to fix) and tranny failures ($1.5k to fix and up).
So the Lexus is cheaper to own.
And after checking the data, it turns out most failures occur at the 125-200k mile mark, so buy cars after that.
No way is a manifold on a 4.6L going to run you $1000. Transmission work can also be done for less.
You’re really vehemently advocating for this Lexus, which is fine, but this is @lukerules117’s first car. It sounds like he wants something simple, dependable, with a plethora of parts availability. It also sounds like he is partial to American car design as well. In other words, not your Lexus.
I’m sure the Lexus has its strengths, but all things considered, it sounds like you’re in the minority of what would be a good car for OP. He asked for suggestions and you have provided yours. We have provided ours. Conclusionary statements based on anecdotal evidence don’t really mean much considering you’re not the final prospective purchaser.
I think it’s clear that we all know what car you would prefer if you were in the same market. It’s also clear what my choice would be. Gunning for each other’s choices accomplishes nothing here.
@NewCarLover
Look, no one is arguing that the LS400 wasn’t a superior vehicle in every respect… but the key here is that it was when new. The problem is that cars age, and the Lexus is no exception. Yes, you never need to worry about a bottom-end failure on a 1UZ-FE; but as others have stated; this is a whole car… not just an engine.
Cars have a lot of rubber components such as bushings. They wear out due to age. “Low” mileage is irrelevant when a car is 25 years old. Lexus used more or less the same shitty rubber as everyone else, and its bushings are all gone at this point and NEED to be replaced.
I know what that entails; I had a 1988 Camry that developed Ameri-float because of bushings that were gone. I sold her for $250 to someone, because I knew that restoring her to a good driving condition would have cost me at least $3,000, because it entails stripping her down to her bare body by removing all suspension components, and both the sub-frames, and replacing every bit of rubber you can find… assuming you can even find replacement bushings for it. That right there is the key… I couldn’t find them for sale. That alone spells the death of a car. This situation affects any and all cars of 20-25 years of age… and some fail much earlier. The LS400 is not an exception… and assuming you can even find the required parts for it; (which I highly doubt because I couldn’t for a bloody Camry that were produced by the million), immediately double my price estimate to no less than 6 grand; simply because it is an LS400.
The Ford platform on the other hand… bushing replacement is a routine job here. I actually know a whole shop dedicated to servicing fleet vehicles; and 95% of them are a Crown Victoria or Town Car. They accept other customers, but those Fords are their bread and butter.
Trust me… I myself can’t believe I’m advocating a FORD over a TOYOTA… but this is that situation.
If you have at least $15,000 to spend, and an LS400 is your dream car… go ahead… but if that isn’t the case; stay away.
Ok my 2cents. In aus a ls400 (toyora soarer) are cheap as chips you can pick them up for around 2000-3000 i have seen example over here with over 400000 kms on the dail on both the v8 and twin turbo. Asfar as mod motors we only got them from 2003 down under but were still using the 302 well into 2002 and for a cheap easy to fix reliable and economical motor they trump the mod motor by a long way. However I love the mod motors and if you wanted something to modify down the track you cant go wrong with a 4v 4.6. In the end the best thing you can do is drive as many cars as possible before making a decision. Lucky Americans my first car was a 2l 1985 ford telsta i wish i could have had any American car as my first.
How much does the “routine job” cost in the case of the Lincoln?
I believe you’re talking about the SC, not the LS.
@Darkshine5 The LS400 here is the Toyota Celsior; not the Soarer.
@NewCarLover I can’t quote a price; as I don’t own one and haven’t gone down that road before… but I can tell you it is viable and can be done. The parts are available.
Ah ok my mistake. Celsiors are very cool but much more expensive here as you have to import
From what I read for something like that it would still be pretty labor intensive and would take over 10 hours of work on the Lincoln.
Of course… that will be very labor intensive on anything; including a 50’s VW Beetle. That’s why I got rid of my Camry.
I’m a bit dubious of the 10 hours claim… but you know how “the book” time-estimate works. I was quoted 6 hours of work to change my Altima’s PCV valve; which involves removing the intake. It shouldn’t take that long. Half that; sure.
Yeah, full bushing replacements are just about the worst things to do on a car in general. It’s Hell on any car… but that’s what happens when you want to restore an old car to drive properly.
I’m likely going to encounter this issue soon with my 16 year old Altima. Going to have to decide if I’m going to restore her, or get something newer; as much as I’d hate that. Infiniti G35/37 is probably the best candidate in my case.
I was a bit dubious of the 10 hour claim as well, which is why I told you I read it would just take over 10 hours rather than telling you 10 to 24 hours which is what I actually read, and I also found people having problems finding bushings for the panther platform, and yeah I’m aware that would need to be done on any older car unfortunately…
I see. Well, if taking the intake manifold off of an Altima takes 6 hours, then a full bushing change would take 24 hours 
I can see it taking upwards of 6 hours though; in a shop with people who know what they’re doing. It’s not fun.
Damn… now Panther bushings are an issue to find? What is this world coming to?
I know they still produce them for the fleet market… maybe you just need to go through their channels. That may be easier where I am than anywhere else though.
Ahh, well that’s the thing, I don’t think that 10 to 24 hour estimate for that was for a shop full of people who know what they are doing, it sounded more like just one guys personal experience doing it on his panther body cars.
Yeah… I wouldn’t even attempt that on your own. It’ll take you a couple of days. This is a shop job; at the very least because of the car lift.
yeah, I wouldn’t have planned on it, I’m clueless when it comes to car repairs.
It is less expensive to buy all new control arms for a Panther.
Job takes about 2 hours to replace all 4 control arms.
The OE control arms are designed to not have the bushings replaced. But aftermarket arms by Moog, Mevotech, and Dorman are designed to be serviceable.
BTW, the control arm coverage range for the Panther is 1980-2002 | 03-06 | 07-11
Remember I kept mine on the road a long time. I can fully recommend one of these as a first car.
