Micro Machine Challenge Ep. 2! *scrapped, because I'm a dumbass*

Build a car from the ground up.
Us whatever body style you want. Mini Coupe? Yes. Mini Van? Why not. Truck? Of Course. Super car? I mean … If you have to.
Your vehicle must NOT exceed 1800 lbs. And yes, those are in Freedom Units, so adjust accordingly.
You can choose whatever the best chassis type, and use the best available material, as long as it is NOT carbon fiber.
Use whatever the best available suspension is, as long as it is NOT pushrod.

Your vehicle must be street legal. As such, you must equip head/tail lights, indicators, door handles, and visible exhaust;
Anything else is fair game.

Use whatever drive type you wish.

Now, as for the engine:
Set the engine year to 2015.
If you must, you may use AlSi.
Use whatever configuration you want. 4’s, 6’s, 8’s, 12’s, whatever…
As long as it does not exceed 1.8L, using the Communist Measurement System.
You may use whatever cam set up you wish. Yes, that means you can opt out of VVT and VVL.
As for the innards, I’ll defer to you.
Fuel type must be Regular, because these races will be held on private land, and dude is broke.
Turbos? More like Tur-No’s. laughs sarcastically to himself Ok, fine. You can bolt on a cheater-fan.
Everything else is fair game. Provided you have a Cat and something that looks like a muffler.
I must see a MINIMUM of 55 Reliability on these engines, people. We aren’t insured, and I don’t want to be held liable
if your topend goes critical and your brain gets shotgunned all over the lawn.

Use whatever gearbox and gearing setups you wish, as long as it isn’t that slappy-paddle shit.
No electric LSD’s.
Set up your wheels and tires however you see fit. Yes, you may use Semi Slicks; this is a race after all. No Carbon Fiber.
Set up brakes however you wish, as long as it’s not Carbon Ceramic.
everything else is fine, as long as you have, at the very minimum, Standard Safety.

After you finish cramming whatever monstrosity you’ve constructed into your car, you’ll be allowed to take it to our
certified Normandy Mechanic, who will give you no more than 40 Quality points to be distributed as you see fit; provided no one option exceeds 10 points. If you feel the need to use Negatives, you must not exceed -5.

If you can do all that for less than $12k, you’re in.

We will be testing on the Automation Test Track until Wednesday, the 15th. Afterword, I will put the rest of the tracks up, and
we can move on from there.

There will be a top-speed run, and at least one track with an off-road section.

After some thinking, I’ve decided to implement a points system. If this series continues successfully, (and assuming the same player show up) you will accrue points and be able to get special bonuses.

Using the data from the previous race, I’ve tallied the points as follows:
Strop: 20 pts
AirJordan: 15 pts
The Dziuras: 10 pts
Suprec: 5 pts
Everyone else: nata

Bonus Points:
TheDziuras: 20pts
Strop: 15 pts
AirJordan: 10 pts
Madrias: 5 pts
Everyone else: Jack

That said, its up to you to keep track of your own points. Primarily, because I have ADD and won’t remember.

I will be integrating things you can spend your points on after the initial tests. Those who weren’t good enough to get any may attempt to appeal to my humanity scoffs and score some pity points.

Thus far, I’ve had about six entries, three of which needed retooling.

Preliminary Test Results:
DarkShine - ANZhotrods Minirod: 1:58.72
Madrias - Storm Atom GTR: 2:07.14
HighOctaneLove - Boliq Mouse L-Tuned: 2:11.11
RK38 - Daisuma Maebo GL Tuned: 2:16.21

3 Likes

Some quick questions…

Regular fuel = 91RON?

Negative sliders allowed?

$12k total cost or market cost?

:smile:

I think it was like 87?

No… Okay fine, negative sliders, but only to -5

$12k Total.

I’m pretty sure that 91RON is 87AKI. So, just to be clear you’re requiring regular unleaded? :smile_cat:

if we use a -5 quality slider does that mean we can use a total of +45 on other things?

Any requirements for fuel economy or avg reliability?

how does one get below 1800lbs or 816kg without carbon fibre and at that price point?

It’s difficult, but there’s a lot of room to work. When you build, look at the weights of things. A bigger engine adds more weight. Some parts weigh more than others. Pick things with low weight when building your car.

I mean, I’m not satisfied yet with my design, but I’m below 816kg with my current design.

Also, it may be unwise to reveal this strategy, but… Use your quality wisely. If you need a touch less weight, find components that quality benefits.

well, alu chassis, fibre glass panels. inline4 alsi engine, -15 interiors, standard safety, and i’m still at 900kgs+

than change the body.

Just quick reminder, -5 is lowest negative setting :slight_smile:
Also, AWD system is heavy, and each gear on tranny is pretty heavy

Glued Alu chassis, fiberglass panels, tiny V6, basic interior, FWD. That’s my current combination. I’m very close, though contemplating a 4-cylinder.

ok i’ve come close to it. 840-ish kg. but that is only because i persist to not going FF

and what power figure are you getting?
for me… let me state a fact. out of that 7 gears. i’m wheel spinning in ALL of them

Throw away your power steering. There’s a good chunk of weight.

drivability from 29.2 to 26.7 and only 9 kg lost. i have to see if that is worth it.

can we use moded stuff for the headlight, grilles and stuff?

Trust me, every kg counts. I’m trying to squeeze everything I can out of mine, using every available bit of weight I have to me.

Including throwing out my power steering and dropping to a 4 cylinder that’s bigger than my old V6, and thereby making more power. 1 liter wonder!

you;re going with a 1L 4banger? you’re so gonna regret it when you see the power i’m pushing :stuck_out_tongue:

42 drivability and I’m under the weight limit.

are you using the smart car body?