I started a race for cars with smaller engines to emphasize tuning, but what about people who want lots of power and wheel spin? Well here you go:
Engine Restrictions: Production year 1960, V8, <400 Cubic Inches (about 6.5 liters), No Dual Overhead Cams, Super Leaded Fuel, No Race Tubular Exhaust, Man Hours <75, Material Cost <$1200
Platform Restrictions: Production Year 1960, Steel Monocoque, Front Longitudinal, No Wings/ Splitters (yet)
Model Restrictions: Rear Wheel Drive, MTBF >25k Miles (40234 km), 4/5 Speed Manual, Single Clutch, Semi Slicks, No Downforce Undertray
How to Submit:
Name of Car
Car Company (Optional)
Pictures (Optional)
Time around Example Track x2 (if time is 45 seconds, submit it as 90)
Quarter Mile Time (Game one, not SPG quarter Mile(Sorry 07CobaltGirl))
Tell me if you think the rules should change, Leaderboard will update after 20 submissions and then race will start over in 1961.
Get Example Track here: viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3845
I Easily got a 4 valve SOHC to around the same power as yours 429hp@4800 rpm but for the life of me i couldnt get a pushrod to come even close . which is disappointing.
My car with a bery big block (10750 cm3). The car is based in Buick Riviera and Cadillac Coupé DeVille:
-The car: Montes ElMiraj - Rev0.lua (68.1 KB)
-The engine: 10.1L XP 16V OHVRev0.lua (33.1 KB)
If anyone is looking for a basic idea for old pushrod power take a look at the centauri engines link in my signature, I have a zip file with a bunch of my old v8s on the top of the third page you can play around with.
I do like the power/torque of the Black Betty (and good job eeking that much power in a 1960 block!), but it simply isnt enough power to get out of it’s own way at that weight. As some may have noticed, I have a thing for Chevy V8s (small blocks are just bad to the bone) and have a complete replica lineup of those engines. I tried curbing all of my engines back for this 1960 race and found the only way to get responsiveness high enough to break into the mid-13’s AND run the track at 43s was to use quality sliders. Responsiveness just couldn’t get much past 30 and hp/tq just wasn’t high enough to overcome the 700 pound block. Sure they perform great on the dyno, but in a car they just don’t match up. That being said, my entry is a 1960 version of a 350ci small block Chevy with pushrods and a twin 4bbl. I tried the 302 Chevy and couldn’t get hp high enough. (I’m not much of a tuner) Maybe you could tweak it? haha Get anywhere near 400hp/425tq on this engine and it will be a whiz-banger! Not sure what version you are running so I included back to build 1198. SBC 302 SCCA NARev0.lua (42.7 KB) 302SBC67 StandardRev0.lua (33.5 KB) SBC 302 SCCA NA 1960Rev0.lua (34.5 KB)
Here’s a Z/28 version of your 302, I kept the block the same so it’s still a small block chevy, but it’s power is now a bit over the 350 you used, and it’s weight is a touch under 600lbs. It conforms to the rules of this contest but I did use quality sliders .
It’s power is only about 305, but, keeping the bore and stoke and pushrods it’s the best I could do before work, I’ll have another crack at it tonight, maybe stroke it out to 327. SBC 302 Z28Rev0.lua (37.8 KB)
[quote=“nialloftara”]Here’s a Z/28 version of your 302, I kept the block the same so it’s still a small block chevy, but it’s power is now a bit over the 350 you used, and it’s weight is a touch under 600lbs. It conforms to the rules of this contest but I did use quality sliders .
It’s power is only about 305, but, keeping the bore and stoke and pushrods it’s the best I could do before work, I’ll have another crack at it tonight, maybe stroke it out to 327.[/quote]
Sorry if there was confusion, using quality sliders is perfectly ok as long as you stay under the man hour/ material cost cap.
. which is disappointing.
