A question to the field:
I have a car from with a 0-100 of<img src="/uploads/default/original/4X/f/d/0/fd0e71c2e09a752fe2aee85e3e2b19ea1d9ea21a.jpg" width="86 height=“56”>, a 1/4 Mi of and it uses L/100km
It took a lot of effort to push the price UP to where it is, still under 10k and using qual +6 x4. Anybody feel like giving me a few pointers. For a change my laptime isn’t embarrassing, but could use improvement.
short tip:
Its all about on where you want to improve.You will have to sacrifice something for it,lap times for your case so you can probably improve on the interior side (e.g: adding quality sliders for seats,etc) or make it more drivable (e.g: detune the engine,fatter tires,etc).It depends on what you want.
Hope this helps
Some negative camber usually helps lap times, even if it lowers sportiness. A lot of suspension tweaking will vary the lap times more than you think.
No, no, mine loses to the trackday van, it’s the MR sports car [quote=“Nomade0013, post:7424, topic:6447”]
'96 Gamma Surge GTL 10th anniversary limited edition!
[/quote]
cough Over 60 cough
I also managed >60 drivability with my ZS36 (an FR coupe) - an older MR test car I made recently couldn’t even reach 50, although it might be due to the more rear-biased weight distribution of such a vehicle.
ahem, mine’s MR
I am just happy my shitbox is in the Sub 2min.
So one day, you are bro-ing around with your bros, and then all of a sudden you have bro stuck all over your face. That’s no go bro!
How to recover from the shock? Track day! It’s like auto racing for those who have changed more stickers than tires. Now I know what you are brinking, bro. Get a For Serious sports car on a budget? That’s impossibro! Well you’re right. But there is a solution.
Sure it looks vaguely entirely like a high end Italian south coastal Fruinian exotic. It will get you all kinds of stares from people that know even less about cars than you do. Those wonderful bro-stares. But it’s really a repro bro! Because authenticity is hard.
Slap on some mags, semi-slicks and uncork the exhaust, and you’ll be brotoring like a champ. Just slip on your over the shoulder Zolder holders, and TRACK DAY so hard.
I mean you still have to daily it, those fries won’t curly themselves. It gets 9 Liters/Km bro, super cherry to drive, no skills required. That’ll be just one more dirty secret. It only took a decade to put together and don’t stress about the carcinogenic glue smell. Truly embrace the track bro lifestyle choice with this.
@Dragawn: Is there much of a benefit to being under budget, or should we spend up to the budget? I’ve got a car that I think performs quite well but can’t really be brought up to the budget without using quality sliders that have very poor cost-to-benefit value. Hypothetically, if two similar base cars were entered, would the quality improved one do better or worse?
Are these “cars” supposed to be:
a) modded from something in our lineup or purpose built?
b) “realistic” in terms of build times etc? (my engine takes 244 months)
If your engine takes 244 months then you should probably check to see you’re not well over budget, check the price calculator Dragawn uploaded in his OP.
Oh, it’s under. € 14,926.42 means I have 73.58 Euros left. Qual at +9 across the board. Base car had a “Price Now” of 3656.89
what year is the trim? Dragawn did mention that older cars would face penalties on maintenance costs.
It’s old. Just after better lap times. I can get under 2:00 at 7056 euros.
Edit: Stat wise, it’s more comfortable than a Mk II Ford Escort Sedan (according to this game, at least)
I think older cars are at a disadvantage, plus, also from stats, the car also needs to be somewhat streetable and even possibly useable on a daily basis. I know I had a 1985 budget Carrera worth under 8k too which was doing a 1:57 but IIRC it wasn’t very comfortable. So I’m going for something newer and more spacious.
But hey, the cheap purchase price and a bit of X-factor could swing it, I dunno.
A) The more under budget the more money for smoking tyres, drinking fuel and buying parts, something I’ll consider, although far less reliable but dirt cheap cars are at a disadvantage because even if it’s cheaper to just keep fixing parts, it does get annoying real fast: a broken part often is the end of a trackday. That said, reasonable reliability is reasonable.
B) Older cars do require more maintenance, so it can benefit you to leave some cash in the budget for me to do some preventive maintenance on parts that might be almost worn down.
Go with whatever you want, I trust in my calculator to bash ridiculous choices with the engineering time increase.
So, my car is finished, but…alas…advertisements are not a strong suit for me. Who wants to help me out? hahaha