Yeah keep it simple thats sounds lovely.
So every engine Konfiguration is allowrd now?
I think the penalty is fair but my plan using a van is really tricky now but i will try it. The goal is not to be the slowest guy on the track .
you can do whatever you want with any sliders as long as the car is under 17 grand all in 
Everything except V12s, yes.
V6’s are limited to SOHC 3 valve?
No more valvetrain limitations.
3 Likes
Yaaay, PZS coupe’s V… erm… I mean 1.1 I4, will be updated to DOHC! And 4 valves per cylinder! 
Just entered my car, not sure when I’d get a chance to build after today so here’s hoping the rules stay firm.
She’s called the widowmaker, and she produces… “some”… torque
5 Likes
The tracks will be decided in about an hour, are you guys finding the rules alright?
yes. also, my car is right over the min weight and right under the max power.
1 Like
Hmm so I guess we can tighten the rules next round a bit more then 
I happened to read this thread the other day and took a quick look at this (with that same body of course).
Turns out there is such a thing as too much torque. 
With the same engine block and power being equal at 340hp, 600 torques was faster around ATT than 725 torques. Granted they were also like 3kg of weight apart but I doubt that made a significant difference.
The rules look good, I think. It seems likely rear/mid engined cars will dominate, especially with high power on narrow tires (and doubly so with no drivability limit), and they can be a pain in the backside for anyone to tune let alone a newbie. Might want to consider trying front engine only in a future round if that does happen.
Don’t know if I’ll have time to finish anything worth entering, but might come along to play at some point.
2 Likes
I found 680-700 torques before 3000rpms was a happy zone with a 4 speed to stretch it out a bit
2 Likes
That’s part of why I suggested FR only and a few other things earlier.
I think we’re going to see a lot of V8 DOHC with NA and injection
I have same body car prepared… It might happen that next few rounds not 911 will be op.
Torque? nah… small screamer is the way I went, I’m looking forward to see different setups compare.
Yes yes you are surely right 
…Although V6 might be interesting as well…
Oh yes, the 4 speed is a nice touch. I didn’t get to finetune at all but I hope I’ll have another moment to tinker.
Indeed. I do think tuning turbos may come in handy for the newbs, because it is difficult, but it does make a kind of sense and you can see things as they develop.
RR suspension setup just seems to be pants-on-head sometimes. I think I’ve gotten a hang of it, but it’s not exactly eating the cherry on top of the muffin, more like the wrapper.
RR/MR suspension setup tips…
use tires 2-3 sizes smaller in the front than the rear
use more negative rear camber than front camber
use three times as stiff rear suspension to fronts
make your tire and body roll graphs smooth and as close to each other as possible
aim for a 60/40 weight ratio
4 Likes
Good tips! If you’re really pushing for the track time limit, though, you may want to get experimental with these two. That’s where it starts to take a lot of time for a small gain.
3 Likes
I’m running 160mm spacers on the rears, that’s another way to overcome it without sacrificing front wheel width and so braking power.
See this is the point of this challenge. To share tips with each other which encourages competition amd makes us all better. Theres no point in just having the same people win each time without passing on that knowledge…I mean id like to get a podium just once before i have to give the game away
3 Likes
One mistake commonly made is the wheels size, if you use smaller wheels, like 14" or 13" you can use wider tyres. There was a lot of people that used tyres with smaller then 205.
Rimsize is part of it, but max ti(y)re width is based on sidewall profile, making a larger diameter tire means you can fit 15,16 or even 17" rims while still keeping the maximum allowed width of 245mm. That depends on the body choice of course not all of them allow the the ti(y)re thickness needed to run a larger rim, because remember rim size limits brake rotor size. And larger rotors can soak up more heat and let’s you run less brake cooling, which means less overall cooling, which means a lower coefficient of drag and a faster top speed.
Edit, forgot the mention the last part, which can be a real facepalm moment if you forget to do it. once you’ve got the rim size worked out don’t forget to then drop the ti(y)er diameter down to the smallest possible setting without reducing the width, sidewall is good for comfort but too squishy for fast track times.
2 Likes