I may need t tune suspencin t make up fr tirewear and fue weight, it may be bttming ut,
Mattmr2 times are much mre cnsistent ( srry guys, my keybard is brken(
Less than 3 seconds off the leaders, without ridiculous fuel or tire usage. That is much better than I was expecting.
Slightly worse tire wear on the front, same on the rear, slightly better (16.5/10 laps vs 17.5/10 laps) economy. Shaved ~4.5s from my times. Yep, another sucky car! hahaha But itâs still not too bad for OHV.
I did manage ~210km/h on the slingshot, so thatâs pretty good!
'Murica!! 
Switched to sports and got camber just a hair lower⌠2 seconds slower, exactly. Well I basically lose 2 seconds in laptime due to my tire wear so maybe sacrificing my starting laptime will allow me to maintain field position throughout the race instead of falling from 7th to 20thâŚ
Really feel like there is another 1 second in there I could make back but Iâm just not finding it. W/e, coupe ftw!
EDIT: It would help if I would actually pay attention to the S2/S3 timings instead of full lap times. My S2/S3 times are under a second slower after switching to sports and my gearing is DESTROYING my 0-100km/h acceleration and subsiquently my S1 times. This makes me think my overall lap times are crap when in reality the consecutive laps of the real races are more accurately portrayed via my not so bad S2/S3 times. Hoping to stay above 20, aiming for 15th⌠meh
Just to confirm. Will there be a third test?
Edit: Reading is hard 
Yeeeeeees. 
Hi guys!
So, reviewing my cars performance after the first pre-season test I found some stats that might need attention and I was wondering if anyone would give me some feedback.
Top speed: 195km/h, my car must have one of the slowest top speeds on this track. This wonât be favorable on the Green Hell, but does it need a rework?
GripF: Only had 79% left at the end. Maybe not among the worst, but is it essential to increase it?
Fuel: I had 9.2 left⌠how much would be good to have left?
Feedback would greatly appreciated.
It depends on which body you have and how much power you have.
The main factor affecting that stat is the coefficient of drag of your car. An easy way to make it better is to adjust cooling in the aerodynamic so it is barely over what your engine needs. Aerodynamic quality is also quite cheap and makes a decent difference.
Apart from this, make sure you have as much power as legal, depending on your carâs weight, and adjust the transmission so the max power in last gear is near the line representing theoretical top speed.
That seems normal amongst those running slicks.
A lot of people are running with 12~13 left. Reducing drag with the strategies mentioned earlier should help a little. An other strategy might be to run a leaner fuel mixture, although this will reduce power so youâll have to find an other way to get it.
My take on tyre wear is, given the AT test track takes about 23 minutes to get around ten times, that the full length race isnât that much above it. The fastest time in this test was actually apparently on semi-slicks, and to be honest, as far as I could tell those times were consistently faster than everybody elseâs (including mine, which was a slightly slower tune on sports), even considering the tyre wear was higher. Will an extra seven minutes turn the tides in my favour, for example? Thatâs the question and itâs not that easy to answer. I would say that if your tyres are wearing low but your times are still good, then it doesnât matter as much but if youâre seeing a dramatic drop off in the times and, in particular, errors mounting, then you might want to switch compounds or alter the tune to make the car more driveable. Also keep in mind that different tracks have different challenges and tyre wear.
Green Hell is a grueling track, with a lot of technical corners but also a few sections where horsepower and top speed is king (namely Schwedenkreuz, Kesselchen, and Dottinger Hohe). If your car has a lower top speed, one would assume this is because it has less power and, ideally, should therefore also be lighter as most entries should be right on the power to weight limit. Thus, such a car should ideally be much faster around the corners so check your corner speeds compared to your competitors.
Automation Test track is actually slower on average than Green Hell, even with that long high speed straight. Meaning that if Killrob was, say, using that landbarge with the super high top speed still, and getting extremely similar times to me, then Iâm going to be in serious trouble come Monza 
Fuel: More weight is generally more inconvenient but to be honest, if you compare it with others, it doesnât seem to make a HUGE difference to overall performance. Which is why Iâm going to step up my fuel richness a fair bit, also to reduce cooling requirements and therefore drag. I reckon I can easily afford at least 20% more fuel consumption myself, but thatâs because I had like 13.1L left.
From the 1945 results, ATT isnât a tire wear heavy track.
Brands hatch is probably going to give an advantage to the very fast cars running sports. Same thing if Martin runs GH or other tight tracks.
The track list has been updated. Like last season, we will have a surprise at the end of the season (a completely new track). 
[quote=âDobbleâ]Hi guys!
So, reviewing my cars performance after the first pre-season test I found some stats that might need attention and I was wondering if anyone would give me some feedback.
Top speed: 195km/h, my car must have one of the slowest top speeds on this track. This wonât be favorable on the Green Hell, but does it need a rework?
GripF: Only had 79% left at the end. Maybe not among the worst, but is it essential to increase it?
Fuel: I had 9.2 left⌠how much would be good to have left?
Feedback would greatly appreciated.[/quote]
I can only assume youâre running the coupe body with these stats, either that or a VERY inefficient, low powered roadster. If youâre in a coupe body those stats seem about right for a mid-to-high level tune. If you look at my stats I got to about 208-209 km/h, had .78 grip on the front and rear, and 9.4 fuel left. Your top speed is definitely a limiting factor and you may want to look into spending some money in the aero tab, reducing the amount of cooling, and messing around with your gearing and power band. Additionally, if you have high engine reliability you might want to try increasing your RPM limit and see if that helps out your top speed, if the limit is set too low for your power band it can reduce your top end power a decent amount. I was able to pick up another km/h but increasing my RPM limit by 1000, only dropped .5 reliability and made up for it through some engine tweaking.
If however you are using the roadster body, I would suggest looking at your HP and weight and thinking about adding more weight so that you can use a higher HP engine. More HP means more top speed and sometimes better acceleration. You may lose a little in cornering speed but I generally find that a .2 km/h drop in cornering speed is overcome by a better top speed for most tracks, especially if you get .10 or better acceleration times (look at your 80-120 km/h time).
Tuning is fickle and sometimes you can find a surprising amount of lap time hidden in the settings, sometimes youâre lucky to drop .2 seconds. :\
Looking at his posts he seems to be running the small 40s body.
Well from the Dalora camp its not so good news. Poor performance, as expected poor tyres wear, excellant fuel economy and average top speed.
Back to the drawing board for the Dalora techs to find those improvements.
So, with some pointers from a user here (I will let them claim credit if they choose to, and Der Bayer knows who it is), I have a competitive car finally. Probably not top 15, but should be able to wrestle a top 20 or 25 at least. So, still mediocre, still OHV V8, and yes, still a coupe body. Suspensions are justâŚwellâŚinsane. I would never have looked there for a better time, but what still doesnât quite make much sense to me (and I messed around a lot with this setup), this car is now nearly 5 seconds faster around ATT. A single click on any setting in any direction puts it right back where it originally was. Go figure! This one doesnât completely suck!
That sounds awesome ColbatGirl, looking forward to battling it out with you in the coupe body!
I doubt itâll be doing battle with you. You might actually see it in your rear view though! #babysteps
I made a car as a test since everyone is saying that OHV is significantly worse then the other valve systems. (Also, I was board).
I got it to match the performance of the car that I had in this past test. Maybe .4 of a second slower or something. That means it would have broken 1:40 in Der Bayers system so it would have gotten around 1:39.60 or so in the test (rough estimate based off of how much faster my car was in the test compared to vanilla Automation times).
It is still more then a second slower then the revision I have sent in but thatâs mostly because I dont want to test several dozen different suspension set ups right now. But with more time and fiddling I think I could get it to match the revision as well.
I want to post it in here for people to look at but thatâs not going to be until after submissions are closed. I dont want someone badge engineering it and claiming it as their own.
Holy crap, you guys are getting competitive engines from OHV⌠When I look at them their power bands and weight are basically useless⌠Guess I just donât know how to design/tune those old engines :\
I can relate bob. Every OHV tourney I enter, I tend to do pretty poorly! It makes sense, since my preference is for the antithesis: high revving DOHC engines