Star in a Reasonably Priced Hypercar

This is my first successful attempt at this challenge and I’m having a blast!

Although I do believe I’m missing something…

2016 Bogliq Shelob



Basically, the car fails in a couple of areas. It’s a bit spooky to drive in the wet (below 50 driveability) and it’s not as comfortable as it could be (below 35 comfort). It also, for 2016, drinks like a fish so I have to find a way to save fuel while improving handling and comfort!

I tried a N/A model but it juuust wasn’t fast enough :unamused:

Oh, it also costs 84K with a 100% mark-up so it’s a bargain for what it achieves! :grin:

3 Likes

that is a loooooot of power haha. I suspect your car’s got more fuel consumption largely due to the fact it’s quite large, after all, I’m running 9.6L/100km and 1470kg with a specific output of a bit over 200hp/L myself.

4 Likes

I don’t know what mine comes out to in L/100km, but I think 22.8 MPG isn’t exactly awful to the tune of 1000 horsepower.

It’s not bad at all for a hypercar weighing 1800+Kg but I was shooting for 12L/100 max so it doesn’t pass my fuel requirements, lol!

Yup, heavy and lots of power does not an eco car make! I’m going to keep on trying but I’m just chuffed that I was able to get this close! :sunglasses:

1 Like

Ummm… This will be the definitive tune for the 2016 Bogliq Shelob… :scream:



I was testing an AWD version of the Shelob in the hopes that the grip would make use of all the power available… Unfortunately I didn’t start a new engine variant so my RWD Shelob got some free upgrades too…

New RRP of $94,000 and just squeaks by on PU’s but it’s now even spookier in the wet, the interior is having a hard time keeping the driver in place and the fuel economy still misses internal targets!

Imagine if I’d entered this car in CSR 23… I might have won! :laughing:

5 Likes

@strop see? Everyone is making it sub-7 minute with budget to spare…
My car is at 7:15 but I think I simply used the wrong body as a platform for this challenge.

Gotta have some room to move. It’s good for having a bit of variety and proving @Deskyx wrong :stuck_out_tongue:

5 Likes

Has there been a change in the game? My stats have mysteriously changed grrrr

Relevant to thread. Lol.

5 Likes

100 $ per horsepower :smiley:

that is a good horsepower to price ration

2 Likes

Somehow I have difficulty imagining selling my 2000bhp model for 200K :joy:

2 Likes

You’re not alone. I started off using the large 2002 MR body, and now i’m stuck at low 7:04 with lousy reliability (54 ish) and about 1000 hp to 1575 kgs… I just can’t get below 7:03 :unamused:

And yet i have good cornering (1.31 front and 1.41 back) and a top speed of 360 and good acceleration (2.3/1.1.) and 48/79 DR/SP.

If i look to the other cars it should break the 7 minute mark (and it does with slicks) but i can’t get it below w/o

1 Like

I built quite a few cars that looked like they had better performance numbers than the one I posted above but kept falling short. I just kept trying different bodies and engines until I found a combo that worked well. You’ll get it soon too.

1 Like

For the lolz, I can’t tune track suspension for crap, but I can tune for cheap power, so here’s my take on the cheap hyper car, 6:52 ring time, 15.6 mpg, F-AWD 1 seater, and a 10 liter twin turbo pushrod V8 with 1535 horsepower. and it can sell pretty well with a %111

5 Likes

Raw brute force + F-AWD is usually a good combination.

You have just made me remember my entry for CSR22 - it had that exact configuration. However, given that it is possible to make a mid-engined AWD car achieve even better results, how can this be achieved?

Mid-engine is better inherently balanced for sport. Notice how 90% of supercars and almost all hypercars are mid engine? There’s a reason for it.

However, F-AWD responds well to raw brute force, as the AWD takes away some of the problems FR would otherwise have, notably wheelspin. But, a downside is that AWD cars are heavier, and as a result, a MR car has simply less bulk to drag around while a F-AWD car is usually fighting diminishing returns. Sure, a bigger engine makes F-AWD faster, but it adds more weight, and it doesn’t usually take that long for you to start adding horsepower and not going much faster.

As for M-AWD, it’ll beat F-AWD for the most part, but a well tuned MR will beat a poorly-tuned M-AWD car every single time.

3 Likes

To any tuner with more skill then me, and as a tribute to the Aussies on here, it’s about 10 seconds shy but I think it can do it.

nialloftara - blue oval tyhoon.zip (30.9 KB)

edit it’s not a 7 minute time. it’s a 6:60
may gave changed a few things, now makes 400lbft more torque.
nialloftara - blue oval GT.zip (29.5 KB)


8 Likes

I think that could just about do it if you went AWD.

Thought of that but the straight 6 is too big to fit the transfer box.