Holy spetznaz, what a challenge! Got what I believe is the perfect response to this, time will show 
I’m fighting an uphill battle with my very American ideas. I’m thinking a Shelby Cobra or Chevy Corvette approach would be best for me. (good in turns, very easy to tinker on, relatively on the cheap side.)
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after all consideration. i think i’m going to try going german with this one.
Do semi-active dampers and active sway bars count as non-tinkerable when paired with progressive springs? What about adaptive dampers and semi-active sway bars?
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Some rumors arrived at the Oceania ZM headquarters about the new car for the GG racing driver, so one of the local employee that was also the main contact for the great Zeus-GG Tune project took one of the exposition cars of the HQ, the BMMA Salmon 2.3 GT-Biposto (a limited 2 seater version of the highest trim level of the 6 cylinder 2.3 liter Salmon) and drove it directly to the GG tune shop.
Once he arrived, he contacted the GG CEO claming there was some paperwork to fix and some invoices to check about the latest batch of the Zeus-GG. It was quick and easy, because it was just an excuse to show off the car.
Looking at Kai, he was staring at the car with a pinch of curiosity, our employee took the chance. While coming closer to him he pointed at the car, with a reassuring smile on his face.
«Oh, hi… you must be Kai. Are you intrested in the car?»
But Kai didn’t fell for it, refusing to answer and hiding behind another reassuring smile, fake as a 3 dollar bill.
«I see… well, do you wanna take it for a ride? You won’t regret it» the employee winked and threw the key in Kai’s hand.
As all the BMMA, this is a car searching for the perfect mix of sportiness, low running cost, realible mechanics, reasonable costs with italian classic styling.
The engine in the front is the classic and famous naturally aspirated inline 6 from BMMA with 2.3 liter of displacement, 220hp and redline at 8900rpm. The driving wheels are on the rear, 215/50 R17 all around highlights the sporty behaviour of the car.
Premium interior all around, but with only 2 seat for this special trim edition for people looking for pure fun without drawbacks and all the driving aids can be switched off.
Oh… as all the BMMA, the car comes with a pair of driving gloves included in the price.
(if there is any screenshot missing, let me know… I’m having an headache trying to find out everything!)
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So, if I’m getting this right… which I’m sure I’m not … @strop wants a replacement for his Mephisto?
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that’s one way to do it, yes
Returning to update my Apollo and I’ve made the turbo spool up 600 rpm earlier while producing the same power and being more efficient.
If I were to enter this round, I would most likely replace Toothless with something that is… not so toothless. However, I would only do so if I were absolutely certain that Kai would not reject the design for any reason, and keep it affordable in the short and long term.
Like the rest of GG he does not really care about seat material. Hence the recommended comfort rating of 35 at the maximum, gentlest, least sporty end of things.
You can go higher and it might be nice if it suits the car, but let’s just say nobody in GG is looking to get Kai a Mercedes C class etc. The minimum recommendations are mainly there to make sure you tune the car inappropriately with rock hard springs on an eco box etc. Or install any spikes which stab the driver in the leg.
Music on the other hand, jamming out is always good. Strop in particular notices a big difference between a Kai who’s been driving a car with decent audio versus a Kai with none. He would prefer a minimum of 6 speakers (this would be a fact known from a story I haven’t posted yet, so I’m posting it here), though if the car is like pint sized and geared to hustle 2 would be enough. 10 speakers? 15? Most likely does confer a small benefit but also increases the chance of him going “windows down” mode, which would be a dick move. It would be kind of weird if you paired a 10 speaker system with standard seats, though, unless you can tell me some real life examples. Just saying.
For our purposes, all parts can be tightened or replaced but any active components involving magnets or hydraulics and actuators can’t be adjusted mechanically. So the effect on tinkering is arithmetic.
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In your tinkerablity graph is the engineering time and production units for the whole car? If so what about those stats for the engine?
Yes. The figures are approximate as there’s a degree of variation depending on the components so don’t get too tied up in the exact number. But as implied in the hints, for engine numbers, halve the total numbers for a rough guide.
Simpler parts are easier to tinker with, so I may use those on my entry.
Also, the interior and entertainment suites should be of the same type (both standard or both premium, for example , rather than having mismatched quality for the pair) when you want to replace Toothless. I would never make such a mistake!
Yes to the latter. Not just for my challenge either. Consider how confused @thecarlover was when reviewing @asdren’s entry which had nice seats but a CD player that looked like it belonged to a Camry.
For modified cars the rules go a bit out the window, of course. Some people like to pump their cars with ludicrous audio.
That’s an awfully low target. My current design can hit 35 comfort with a basic interior and standard infotainment, lol. I was playing around with 70 comfort earlier…
hmmm means i need to swap sporty interior with standard (awesome less weight) but swap my standard cd for the premium (more weight grr)
edit: this was meant to be a joke not a serious comment sorry @strop My design is set in stone I’m just tuning to DSD standards
@strop Time vill tell my friend to vill tell
Well apparently somethings changed with the game as after returning changing some front suspension to double wishbone the engine no longer fits and if I go back to struts it still doesn’t fit so I have 2 options give up on the role play idea or make a completely new engine.
EDIT: trying the build a new engine idea and the largest engine i can fit with only reducing bore (stroke was already fairly high) is only a 720cc where previously i had a 1002cc
I’m in the exact same boat. The model I was considering could only fit a microscopic engine anyway.